[tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?

  • From: "Fred McDonald" <texasbluebus@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 15:28:57 -0600

Ok here’s the latest,
Tried to start the bus this morning (it’s a little cold outside) bus will not 
start.
Checked the points, gap is a little tight but there is a gap, removed points, 
they’re a little burned but not badly, the plastic piece that rests against the 
cam is worn.
Replaced points with new, ( I know I should have done this when I changed rotor 
& cap)
Bus starts, I let it warm up and drive to store about two miles away. Two stop 
signs on the way and no problems.
Start the bus up and go home, same two stop signs and a few speed bumps, no 
problems.
I will have to venture away from home a little further before I’m comfortable 
but the problem seems to be fixed.
I points over carburetor because like Dennis said “points are easier than carb” 
also I didn’t seem to have any problems flooding the engine when the motor 
wouldn’t start.
I have not replaced the condenser yet, It’s a real pain to change, it’s 
difficult to get to the screw and from experience it’s failure rate is very 
low. 
Dennis goes to the head of the class!

On another subject,
1966 & 1/2 through 1967 the bus is 12 volt. The brake light, turn signal & 4 
way flashers all work on one bulb.
Everything goes through the flasher unit and turn signal control arm. 
The Flasher unit was only manufactured for this period, 1966 and earlier 6 volt 
is different and much simpler and in 1968 a new design was used.
My right brake light isn’t working, the right rear turn signal does work and 
when I turn on the 4 way flasher, the right rear light doesn’t work.
There is a coalition between the 4 way flasher and brake light but not the turn 
signals.
There are I think 9 wires connected to the flasher unit and the unit grounds to 
the body of the bus for a negative ground.
I have been tinkering with the connectors & wires and if I get the right rear 
light to flash with the 4 way flashers on, the brake light works.
I’ll put the kick panel back on and recheck the light and it stops working.  
(this is driving me nuts)
I have a wiring schematic showing the routing of the wiring & color codes for 
each wire but I can’t find and explanation for each connector on the flasher 
unit.
A working original flasher unit is a rare item, Is there a modern replacement 
for this genus German design!



From: chuck blue 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:53 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?

fuel pump?
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Fred McDonald 
  To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:48 PM
  Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?

  Points & condenser


  From: Denis Dodson 
  Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:36 PM
  To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?

  Are you running points or electronic?

   

  From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 
Fred McDonald
  Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:34 PM
  To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [tcb] What is Wrong With My Bus?

   

  For those that don’t know,

  I have a 67 Westie with a 1600cc single port motor and an alternator instead 
of a generator.

  It has been running fine.

  I drove to the store about 2 miles away, they didn’t have what I wanted & 
started for another store.

  About 5 miles later I stopped at a light and the motor died at idle. 

  Restarted the motor and drove about 100 yards and stopped at another light, 
the motor died again, this time the motor started only after a lot of cranking 
on the starter.

  Drove about 300 yards to the next light and the motor died at idle and would 
not start, ran the battery down and tried to jump start but still would not 
start.

  Had the bus towed home, I hooked up the jumper cables and it started ran for 
about five minutes and died and would not start.

  Next day, engine is cold and starts up, runs for about 10 minutes and dies 
and will not start attached the jumper cables and still will not start. 

  Engine is flooded, remove spark plugs, wet with fuel and a lot of carbon 
build up on plugs 1 & 2, plug 3 has a little build up and 4 is fine but I 
replace the plugs.

  motor is now cooled off and starts up, runs for about 5 minutes and dies and 
will not start.

  My brother the mechanic tests the fuel pump, (working) tests the coil and no 
spark, suggests that coil is failing after it warms up.

  New Coil & battery, motor starts and runs at idle for over 30 minutes, I turn 
the motor off and restart the motor several times and  no problems I think it’s 
fixed but don’t take it for a drive.

  Today I’m trying to fix a brake light problem, I start the bus and let it 
idle for 15 minutes and over the next hour I start the motor and turn off the 
motor several times.

  I decide to go to the store, I get a few blocks down the street and come to a 
stop and the motor dies, restart the motor and look for a spot to turn around, 
come to a stop and the motor dies, start the motor go about 50 yards come to a 
stop and the motor dies and will not start and now is flooded.  I let the bus 
sit for about 10 minutes and it starts, I stay on the throttle and keep the 
RPMs up and get home.

  Well what do you think?

  Is this really weird?

   

   

Other related posts: