From your previous post, you *can* take the rods out without splitting the case however I wouldn't recommend it.
-----Original Message----- From: Denis Dodson Sent: Sep 6, 2007 12:49 PM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: Time to look for parts
Can't I take the pushrod off with a long extension after I take off the piston from the wrist pins?
The benefit for me of a stock muffler is in not in my top end, but my rear end. I don't drag a stock muffler. No exhaust leaks = engine very much happier.
I think what caused this is 7 years and about a million miles. I put in 6000+ miles last Sep-Oct-Nov alone. And I used my bus for a shop truck everyday for a couple of years while we lived in Dallas. Stuff wears out.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 12:29 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Time to look for parts
To remove the push rods you will have to split the case. Running a stock exhaust will increase your low end torque by increasing back pressure but will decrease your top end speed.
Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Brian, you can run stock exhaust on a 1914. Thee deck spacers make the whole engine wider by a 1/2 an inch, so you have to spread it a little.
Mark, I agree about doing it all while I am in the engine, but if it is really not time for me to build a whole new engine, Where do I stop? If I split this case then I should go ahead and get a Mexi/Braz FI aluminum, but the I have to get all the machining done, and blah blah.
At this time I just want to replace the jugs, rings and pistons. I might take out the pushrods and change the bearings, and I will inspect the heads, but I just don't want to do a whole engine right now.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denning" To: Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 12:14 PM Subject: [tcb] Re: Time to look for parts
> wait, wait, wait, can you really run a stock beetle muffler on a 1914??? > could that have something to do with the problem that you ended up having? > > >>From: Mark Sawyer >>Reply-To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >>Subject: [tcb] Re: Time to look for parts >>Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 10:00:51 -0700 (PDT) >> >>It's always been my opinion that if your going to pull the heads then go >>ahead and split the case and replace the bearings and the oil pump. no >>telling what kind of trash has been introduced into the oiling system. >>Your only talking another $50.00-100.00 worth of parts. >> >>mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote: >>I did the same on the engine in my thing a couple of years ago and it was >>the >>#3 >>piston and rings. When I pulled the heads you could see the grooves right >>away. >>A set of jugs and pistons with ring should do ya, but I would pull the >>heads >>and check it out, could be a valve or something else. >> >> >> >>Quoting Denis Dodson : >> >> > I will need new cylinders, pistons, rings, all that stuff. At this >> > point >>I >> > will probably only change out those parts. There is the philosophy that >>I >> > should replace the pushrod bearings and do a valve job and there is the >> > feelings that I should simply build a new engine. >> > >> > I am old and tired and cash poor, so cylinders it is (maybe). Someone >>told me >> > that I could buy the machined 88s with the pistons and rings already in >>them >> > an I could simply install them at the wrist pins. Anybody know where I >>can >> > find these and the prices? I have a source here for the 88s and pistons >>but I >> > haven't heard a price yet. >> > >> > For you mechanics out there. I have power loss and smoke on the >>backstroke. >> > Rings or burnt piston. >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! > http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2 > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: > 269.13.7/992 - Release Date: 9/6/2007 8:36 AM > >
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