Yeah; one of these days if I live long enough I may write my on Idiot book. With co-author Chuck Blue of course. Maybe even throw in a few passages from Will. --- On Fri, 10/28/11, Biggestdaddyo <biggestdaddyo@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: From: Biggestdaddyo <biggestdaddyo@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [tcb] Re: James To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Friday, October 28, 2011, 10:23 AM Dang, that was an EXCELLENT tip Sammy, Thanks! I'll be using that one for sure. Nice. James Oliver From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 10:07 AM Subject: [tcb] Re: James Don't pull the engine. Here is an easy method to pull the bushing. Get a tap that is the correct size for the bushing; one that will just screw into the ID of the bushing. Start the tap and slowly run the tap through the bushing. Keep going with it. The tap will bottom out on the bell housing. When it does, continue turning. The tap will then begin to push the bushing out. When the tap is free of the housing just pull the tap out and there you have it. I cannot remember which bushing 6V/12V has the smaller/larger ID, but I have a separate set of tools for each to do the whole job. Larger ID I use a 1/4 pipe thread tap to remove the bushing. For the smaller I use a 14mm tap. (Thread cut is irrelevant). To install the new bushing I made a tool for each, the smaller and larger ID bushing. For the small ID bushing tool I took a piece of 3/4" hardwood dowel rod and turned the end down to approximately 10mm diameter (you want it just be a slip fit into the ID of the new bushing) and the step down on the now 10mm end of the dowel is approximately 12 mm long. This allows you to just slip the new bushing on the step down should be the length of the bushing and drive the bushing in place. The shoulder on the dowel where you cut it down will prevent driving the bushing in too far. For the large ID bushing I did the same but the ID for the bushing is about 15mm diameter. I may be off a bit on some of my measurements; and I think those two tap sizes work, but you should get the idea. I haven't used them in a while and am not positive about which is which. But with these two tools you can remove and reinstall a starter bushing in about 5 minutes and you only have to remove the starter. I actually think I could do one complete including removing and reinstalling the starter in under 10 minutes. And of course VW had a special tool for removal of the bushing but I just made my own removal and reinstall tools. If you have any questions call me if you want 936-569-3542 cell. And I also refurbish ambulance steps! --- On Thu, 10/27/11, James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: From: James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [tcb] Re: James To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thursday, October 27, 2011, 9:22 PM Nope, still won't start. I timed it with the static method. I am suspecting it was the 12v to 6v bushing. I took the starter out and noticed that the bushing I put in a few months ago appeared to be gone. I grabbed a 12 to 6 volt conversion bushing - or so I thought. Evidently I had a 12 v bushing mixed in with my 12 to 6v bushing drawer and beat it into place. I figured out my mistake when I tried reinstalling the 6v starter. I tried removing it with an easy out but it wouldn't catch. Looks like I'll be dropping the engine on Saturday morning.so I'll beat it out from the other side. I can't diagnose the running problem until I get it started so... From: "bbauer2000@xxxxxxxxx" <bbauer2000@xxxxxxxxx> To: Texas Buses <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 8:58 PM Subject: [tcb] James Did you get your Bus issues figured out? If so what was it?