[tcb] Re: I need instructions or a diagram

  • From: "Gerald V. Livingston II" <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:54:48 -0600 (Central Standard Time)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360014245308

2 required (one each for front/rear).

Hooking up a separate sub without a dedicated sub output on the head unit
will be ... interesting ... unless your amp has a passthrough feature to
feed another amp for the sub. If you have been feeding ONLY the sub from an
amp you may now have to go to feeding the mids/highs with an amp (with a
passthrough port) to keep the sub.

Brian is right, no cap needed where you're at in power requirements. When
the amplifier needs constant voltage at high amperage (more than the
alternator can provide --- 70+ amps with the alternator already feeding
everything else) the capacitor provides the juice. When there is no cap for
a big amp you get things like flickering lights, stuutering ignition, and
batteries that die quickly because the stereo hits them for the extra power
and they are not designed to have high amperage drwan from them in short
bursts. Adding more betteries can help the "dying battery" syndrome because
they each get only part of the extra amperage drawn from them when they
take a hit. But it still causes flickering lights etc. because it grabs
from the alternator output before the batteries when the alternator is
operational.

If you go the route I did then you might want to add a cap to save the
battery from taking extra hits (stereo separate from main wiring on a
dedicated aux battery). With one of those orange batteries my stereo would
last for 8 - 12 hours at reasonable volume (Family reunion '06). With the 4
I have in there it was still going strong after over 24 hours at
"unreasonable volume" (T4P). I have a 1600 watt amp on the subs and a 200
watt amp on the mids. I want to add a 50 watt amp to run separate tweets
and take the highs out of my mids. Of course, you can always buy one more
battery from me to get extra run time <grin>.


Gerald

On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 10:57:05 -0600 Brian Denning
<i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> a farad won't help you hook your amp to your radio that simply just
> gives your amp a constant power source. what you need to hook the amp to
> the radio is a little box they sell at radioshack that you hook yoru
> speaker wires into and it has the rca jacks on it. as far as farads...it's
> up in the air... do you have an altenator or generator? if you have an
> altenator with a decent sized battery you shouldn need need one for a
> little 500 watt amp. i am running a 1000watt on mine with no problems and i
> don't have a farad installed. my truck however is pushing 2500watts and i
> am in dire need of a 1/2 farad to help wiht the power...i go through
> batteries every other year in the truck because of the 2500 watt amp
> pushing the subs and the 250 pushing the highs. 

> don't know if that helps or not but there ya go.
> 
> i'm all about sound systems so i can probalby help ya out.
> 
> > From: coocoo@xxxxxxx
> > 
> > I have a new shaft style stereo for my bus. It is 
> > special because it will fit in the hole in the dash. They don't make many 
> > anymore, so it's pretty cool to find a new one in the box. Anyway, I have a 
> > 4 
> > channel 500 watt amplifier and I am looking for a simple drawing or clear 
> > simple 
> > instructions on how to install it using all four channels. I guess that I 
> > am 
> > also supposed to put in a capacitor of, at least, 1/2 Farad, although, from 
> > what 
> > I read a 1 or 2 Farad will do. The radio I bought does not have RCA 
> > outputs, just wires. Help?
> >  
> > I have asked for Gerald's help, he knows all this 
> > stuff. He also showed me the gear to make Murray a plug and play electrical 
> > wonder, and I even offered to bring Murray to Galveston to do this, since 
> > having 
> > all the parts and hooking it all up so that Murray doesn't burn to the 
> > ground in 
> > front of my eyes is two different things.
> >  
> > If anyone can draw and scan and send me a drawing 
> > for all this stuff, I can install it. Nobody, it seems makes sensable 
> > schematics 
> > to hook it all together.


Other related posts: