[tcb] Re: Engine Rebuilder Recommendations
- From: Dan Martin <danandkatrinamartin@xxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 11:17:02 -0600
I am kinda surprised no body told you not to waste your time till you
can find a split bus to fix up, I know some of you split bus guys
wanted to.
I too am glad to see another Phat Chick back on the roads.
I am impressed with you list of things you have already done to get it
back on the road.
It covers most of the stuff I did on my bus after dragging it out of
the field, I just don't like to think about it, and don't type fast, so
seeing it all neatly typed out like you have is pretty cool. I went
thru the same bunch of questions you are dealing with now when I killed
the GEX motor that came with my other bus. After much discussion, with
local shops, the type2 list, and all the vw people I knew at the time,
I had Kermit at ASK Imports build mine to my specs. This is not the
cheapest or easiest way to go but I am happy 2 years and MANY miles
later. I had some problems with the engine at the beginning (defective
cam) that caused me to have to remove the engine, strip it to a long
block and return it to Kermit to have the cam replaced. It was not what
I had in mind when I got into it to start with, but looking back on it
I am glad I was not having to do it with a vendor out of town or out of
state. I know I am saying the same thing as Mark and I agree with all
he said including the good info on Oak Hill, I also know their are a
couple people on the list in the DFW area that should be able to hook
you up with right person or local shop for you.
Welcome to the list!
Good Luck!
On Mar 10, 2005, at 12:36 PM, Mark Sawyer wrote:
> Hi Scott, My name is Mark Sawyer and I am in the VW clubs in the
> Houston area. I usually build my own engines but I have had experience
> with one of the builders you have listed below.
> Stay away from GEX by all means. AVP and JSC Volks I am not familiar
> with. The absolute best that I have found in your area is Oak Hill
> Automotive in Longview, TX. Their phone number is 903-297-3496. they
> also have a web site.www.oakhillautomotive.com. Another good source
> for information on the web is www.aircoolers.org. They have a chapter
> in the Dallas area and are a good bunch of people. Good to hear that
> another Bay window is coming out of retirement. See you on the road---
>
> Mark Sawyer aka "The Vanagon Guy"
>
>
>
>
> Scott Goodno <sgoodno@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm new to VW's and recently bought a '70 Type 2. It was basically a =
> basket
> case, but is a little better now after 6 weeks and much prep work. I've
> finally made the maiden flight! Feels pretty good except for the =
> slipping
> clutch and telltale oil trail down the street! As far as I can tell, =
> the
> bus had been sitting idle anywhere between 4-18 years. Now, onto =
> looking
> seriously at the engine. It currently has a 1500 bug motor installed =
> and a
> severely corroded case. It does leak oil, a lot, and I suspect the main
> seal is also bad. The clutch is toasted, but the transmission seems ok.
> Shifter is quite sloppy. Upon start-up the engine knocks loudly but =
> goes
> away after some oil pressure has built up. Idles very well but I still
> =
> need
> to rebuild the carb.=20
>
> Anyway, I was really wanting to change the engine for a new or rebuilt
> =
> 1600
> with some mods to help with the horsepower, torque and esp.
> reliability. =
> My
> desire is to use the bus as an occasional camper and get maximum =
> reliability
> from the motor. I am looking at AVP, GEX and JSC Volks as potential =
> sources
> for new or rebuilt motors. So far, I think, I would order a 1641cc with
> external oil filter setup, alternator, dual port, deep oil sump, new =
> clutch,
> electronic ignition and header as additional accessories. My questions
> =
> are:
>
> Are there other quality rebuilders you have experience with other than
> =
> those
> I listed? Local to Dallas area or national?
> Would you recommend any other additional mild modifications other than
> =
> those
> I listed?=20
> Any additional advice?
>
> As an aside, I'm recording all of my work on a spreadsheet, so I have
> attached the list of things I did to my bus to take it from dead in a =
> field
> to running. Some are pretty minor others are a necessity. Hopefully, =
> it
> may be helpful for use as a checklist for other novices, like me, just
> getting started!
>
> Regards and thanks for any advise you can give,
>
> Scott
> Dallas
> '70 Bus
>
>
> System Description
>
> Electrical Spark Plugs - Gap and Install
> Electrical Coil - Replaced
> Electrical Spark plug wires - Replaced and routed
> Electrical Distributor cap and rotor - Replaced
> Electrical Ground strap - Body to motor strap broken - Replaced
> Electrical Ground strap - Battery - Cleaned and reinstalled
> Electrical Replace ignition switch and lock cylinder
> Electrical Positive strap - Battery - Cleaned wire and replaced
> terminal end
> Electrical Generator - Cleaned all electrical connections. Replace wire
> connectors
> Electrical Voltage Regulator - Inspect and clean connections
> Electrical Starter - Inspect and clean connections
> Electrical Coil - Connect Pos. terminal to ignition and to 2 points on
> carburetor
> Electrical Change out broken fuse box
> Electrical Install new Battery
> Electrical Distributor condenser and points - Replace and adjust
> Electrical Check Dwell and adjust timing
> Engine Oil Change and new oil strainer
> Engine Lubricate and manually turn motor
> Engine Belt - Replaced and tensioned
> Engine Inspect and purchase bolt, nut, washers and sealant for front =
> Engine
> Case
> Engine Oil pressure switch connection - Tested bad. Replaced
> Engine Flush Engine with Gunk Cleaner. Clean strainer and refill with =
> Oil
> Fuel Fuel line replacement - End to end - New hose and clamps
> Fuel Fuel filter change - Added 2nd filter between pump and carb
> Fuel Fuel tank drain, refill and drain. No rust or sludge
> concerns
> Fuel Clean Carburetor - Carb cleaner spray
> Fuel Inspect/reposition/lubricate throttle cable end to end.
> Replace throttle tube
> Fuel Fuel tank fill - 5 gallons + fuel conditioner
> General Complete electrical schematic poster for garage
> General Clean up engine bay - Degrease and power spray
> General Paint and reinstall steering col. Tube, ignition housing and =
> support
> bracket
> TransmissionTransmission fluid change
> Body Remove old tires from rims
> Body Strip rims and sand/acid etch
> Body Paint rims with POR15
> Body Dust rims with Primer. Complete primer coat
> Body Paint rims with color coat
> Body Order/receive tires.=20
> Body Paint rims with clear coat
> Body Install new tires and balance.
> Body Clean and POR15 lug bolts
> Body Removed and cleaned up rust on Driver seat
> Brakes Recheck rear brake installation, adjust star wheels and torque =
> axel
> nut.
> Brakes Order, Paint and form/replace REAR steel brake lines
> Brakes Replace REAR brake flexible hoses
> Brakes Fill and bleed brake system. Adjust shoes.
> Brakes Replace brake master cylinder. Install and adjust linkage
> Brakes R/R Rear brakes with new cylinders, spring kit, shoes, adjust
> Brakes Paint POR 15 Rear Brake Parts and Connecting Links
> Brakes Check Rear Drum diameter and condition
> Brakes Paint POR 15 Front Brake Parts and Connecting Links
> Brakes Check Front Drum Diameter and condition.
> Brakes Install used brake fill reservoir and tube line to main =
> reservoir.
> POR 15 under tube
> Brakes R/R Front brakes with new cylinders, spring kit, shoes, adjust =
> star
> wheels
> Brakes Order, Paint and form/replace FRONT steel brake lines
> Brakes Replace FRONT brake flexible hoses
> Suspension Replace existing REAR shocks with KYB Gas-A-Justs. POR15
> behind shocks. =20
> Suspension Replace existing FRONT shocks with KYB Gas-A-Justs. POR15
> behind shocks. =20
> Front Axle Replace and lubricate all lub points. Ordered new grease
> fittings
> Front Axle Clean and pack front wheel bearings - Install new grease
> seals
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