[ SHOWGSD-L ] Avoiding Heat-related Injuries in Dogs (Part II)
- From: "Peggy M" <pmick12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 14:34:38 -0400
Part II: " AVOIDING HEAT RELATED INJURIES IN DOGS "
Dogs in heat exhaustion that may progress further into emergency heat stroke
Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference,
but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke, the physiology changes will
make them necessary.
BUT oral replacement at *heat exhaustion* is futile.
At this point, dogs NEED IV FLUID, and lots of it.
There should be a veterinarian on call, and if you have the fluid, a vet or
vet tech could start the IV fluids at your dog event. If a dog gets past
heat exhaustion and goes into heat stroke, time is of the essence.
I always carry a bag of IV fluid and a IV line/needle when I travel.
Sometimes, subcutaneous fluid is all that is needed. If you know of anyone
that carries this set-up, it can be used for heat exhaustion/stroke,
diarrhea, dehydration, whatever..... If prudent, find them as you take
action to search or start off for the veterinarian.
In your grooming or first aid bag/kit, be SURE to have a thermometer, which
is needed for a variety of conditions. Know the *normal* temperature of
*your* dog when relaxed and 'at work,' which may vary from 100 to 102.
COOLING:
* Evaporative cooling is the most efficient mean of cooling. *
However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so
cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can find
and will use some ice depending on the temperature of the water and the
situation. Usually continually running faucet water over the dog is cool
enough. This is for dogs in heat stress or heat exhaustion.
DO NOT IMMERSE A HEAT STROKE DOG IN A TUB OF WATER OR ICE WATER !
1.) This will cause the capillaries on the surface to react to 'cold
weather' and this will slow the cooling of the 'core' or inner body.
2.) When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat
will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool
water and cooling stops. Or immerse and pull the dog out.
The best way is to run water * over * the dog, so there is always fresh
water in contact.
If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan, this is
best. Misting the dog with water is a good prevention, but in heat
exhaustion or stroke, it will only help if the dog is in a dry environment
or in front of a fan.
Just getting the dog wet is not the point, you want the water to be cool
itself, or to evaporate.
For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler
environment, i.e. Shade, with a water mist, or in the vehicle with the air
conditioning on (driving around so the van/car does not overheat and the AC
is more efficient).
ALCOHOL:
I do carry it for emergencies. It is very effective at cooling due to the
rapid evaporation.
It should be used ONLY when other methods are not working.
You should be on your way to the veterinarian before you get to this point
Use rubbing alcohol, which is isopropyl alcohol, not ethyl, for those of
you not aware. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where
there is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones.
Use a little bit and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is
absorbed through the skin. There are concerns about *toxicity,* but you
have to get the temperature down.
PLEASE NOTE - alcohol has fallen out of favor with ER specialists, use it
ONLY as a last ditch effort if nothing else works. Again, you will be on
the way to the veterinarian at this point.
WATCHING TEMPERATURE:
If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write
it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes.
I recommend to get a *rectal* glass thermometer from a pet or animal
supply source if possible. Heavy duty ones are made for horses.
The digital ones from stores can sometimes be unreliable. Check them and
check the batteries. The digital ones that go in the ear I have found to be
unreliable depending upon the user and angle inserted. I don't use them for
a pregnant bitch, either, when watching for the important temperature drop.
Don't forget to shake the thermometer down completely each time it's
returned to the case and when you take it out. Sounds silly, but when you
are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up.
This is VERY IMPORTANT.....
Once the temperature STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS.
The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped.
If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.5, stop
cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how
it continues to go down.
If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low.
I cannot emphasis this point enough.
I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand and
helps provide some useful information.
REMEMBER:
Prevention and learn the individual dog or breed. It is worth the time
and effort.
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