[ SHOWGSD-L ] Avoiding Heat-related Injuries in Dogs (Part I)

From: "Peggy M" <pmick12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Showgsd-l@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 14:31:58 -0400
Feel free to cross post, use in club newsletters, etc, without any
Further permission.
......................

  The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are
  Different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines.

I do not profess to know the appropriate procedures for people other
than what I learned in first aid or nursing.
The best method of treatment is prevention.

  Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue,
and how quickly it goes down.  Learn your dogs response to the different
environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt
test or trial.

  I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but the
difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to
more spring weather in Ohio.

Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works
better. Another very important point.

    Do not swim or wet a heated dog to cool it, then put in put in a
box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation cannot take place in a tight space,
and the box will turn into a sauna and you will cook your dog.  Put it in an
exercise pen, a wire crate with fan, etc.

I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not always lay
on them.  Sometimes, covering the pad would encourage them to lie down on
them.  They can go under the wiring or lay on top of the crate as well.  I
have held them on the back of a dog to get a quick cool.

PREVENTION with fans:

Building a platform to put the wire crates on,  raises the dog up in the
truck box where the air flow is better.   There are many ways to get a fan
on your dogs.  Some dog events allow an electric line for hook-up or
grooming.

I placed a 3-speed high velocity fan or a box fan in blowing on the dogs
with a foot of  space to allow better airflow.

I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless.
Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.

When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep,
breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of
20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days.

If a set-up allows, *pulling* air through an area is a second option.  A

  I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3
speed fan to run from the power point.  It has an automatic feature that
prevents it from draining the battery.  I have a battery jump start 'just in
case.'

  When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a
  Few laps of water.

Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just
Need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective.  Do not worry
about hydration until the temp has started down.

BLOAT:

  A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat.

Due to the heavy  panting they will swallow air, mixed with a large amount
of water they can bloat.

Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting
then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal.

  If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp
normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some
medication.

A case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not
parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and
electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.

CONTINUED......   See PART II 

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[ SHOWGSD-L ] Avoiding Heat-related Injuries in Dogs (Part I)

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