[rollei_list] Re: Subject: Re: TMax 100 Development - some Results
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 19:15:40 -0700
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan Decher" <Jan.Decher@xxxxxxx>
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 6:11 PM
Subject: [rollei_list] Subject: Re: TMax 100 Development -
some Results
Carlos and Richard,
Maybe you are right and I have uneven film development in
my old Jobo
1000 tank with adjustable plastic reel. I do have a
Kindermann 120
steel tank and even a nifty 120/35mm Honeywell Nikor
"crank loading
device" but never mustered enough courage to fiddle with
center-
loading 120 film onto a steel reel in complete darkness...
;-) But
maybe worth a try to see if I get more even development...
It might be worth sacrificing a roll of film to learn
how to load the SS tanks but I don't think you really need
to. All of the 120 size reels have something to anchor the
film at the center. The older Nikor reels have a spring
clip, not sure what the Kinderman has.
In any case the trick is to get the film exactly
parallel to the sides of the tank. You can do this by feel.
Then, wind the film onto the reel without any pushing or
pulling, it will just wind on. In fact, you can lay the reel
on the table top and push the film onto it while it rolls
along. The end of the film will just smap into the last
grooves. Cup the end of the film slightly when clipping it
onto the center. It may also help to trim the corners off
the film, especially with 35mm although I seldom have to do
this.
SS tanks should be filled pretty full to elimnate
surging, the liquid will still move enough for agitation.
Kodak recommends filling the tank first and dropping the
film into it. That is best for uniformity but you have to
work in the dark. I usually just pour the chemicals in. Once
filled smak the bottom of the tank on the bench a couple of
times to dislodge any air bubbles and begin to invert and
reverse it. Kodak recommends that small tanks be agitated
continuously for the first 30 seconds and then for 5 seconds
each following thirty seconds at the rate of about one
iversion cycle per second. I have an old habit of swirling
the tank once each inversion cycle. I have no idea if this
is good or bad but I get pretty consistent results. I
generally like to use developer that gives me about 8 to 12
minutes developing time. 8 minutes is sufficient to insure
uniformity even of the agitation is not quite regular and
longer than 12 minutes becomes boring.
Now, having said all that I am surprized that a Jobo
system is causing problems with uniformity since their long
suit is just the opposite. However, I believe Jobo
recommends a pre-soak. Try that and see if it helps.
Unfortunately, Jobo's once superb customer support has
dwindled to nothing.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
---
Rollei List
- Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe'
in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with
'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Online, searchable archives are available at
//www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list
Other related posts: