Thank you Richard and Eric. I think the capacitor is the main problem due
to it does not keep the charge time enough to ignite the bulb, it would
explain the fact the test lamp flashes hardly you insert the bulb, but it
does not flash if you wait for a few seconds. The capacitor looks an
aluminum cylinder like an AA battery with positive and negative signs, it
says 6 5.54 M. The flash parts look unused or almost unused, I think I'll
start changing the capacitor as Eric suggested.
El jue., 12 de sep. de 2019 18:02, `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
It may be that a dose of contact cleaner will fix the lamp
socket. Your friend may have means to test the capacitor. With
the exception of modern plastic film caps they all have
degradation with time. You can destructively test a bad bulb by
putting the 22V battery across its terminals but don't look at it
or hold it directly in your hand. If a "bad" bulb goes off you
know the problem is in the flash gun.
With standard flash guns (not the BC type) corrosion of the
bulb base was common. Many photographers carried a bit of fine
sand paper to polish the base. A nail file will do it. The
standard flash guns usually have two or three 1.5 volt batteries
so are vulnerable to slight corrosion. The idea of the BC gun is
that the capacitor sends a pulse of quite high voltage to the
bulb, usually overcoming bad contacts. Nonetheless if the contact
resistance is high enough the bulbs won't go off.
On 9/12/2019 12:34 PM, CarlosMFreaza wrote:
PS: Or perhaps the capacitor works, but it does not work fine.
- Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe'
in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with
'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org
- Online, searchable archives are available at