Doug:
I wrote you'll need to do some tests and I only suggested as
a try Perceptol full strength 10' for EI 125, you interpreted my
suggestion right, however I think Allen is right too, I did not think
about the film speed restrainer dilution issue and then I suggest now
two ways to start:
1) Exposing the Film at ISO 64 and developing it with Perceptol full
strength at 68/20ºC for 8' , you'll gain fine grain (Ilford
instructions).
2) Exposing the film for its ISO 125 nominal speed and developing it
with Perceptol 1:3 during 18' ( Digitaltruth suggestion for Plux X
35mm, but it must work for 120), you'll lose a bit of fine grain but
you'll win sharpness.
As I explained, these are developing times for the Plus X pre-2007,
but Kodak says the devoloping times variations are very slight for the
later version and Digitaltruth says old times are good starting
points.
Carlos
PS: Anyway I have no doubt you could obtain usable negs with my
original try suggestion.
Believe me the price you pay for finer grain straight or not very
diluted is
high. Make one print from a straight developed neg and another with
one at
the maximum dilution and you'll see a marked difference. The higher
dilution
will show more more grain sure but at extremely higher clarity and
sharpness. The print from the straight neg will look very soft. Like
from a
lens in extreme need of cleaning.
Normally you'll want to dilute as much as you can until grain starts
getting
to be an issue for you. So it may depend on if you tend to print at
11x14 or
8x10. Most finer workers would rather be looking at sharp regular
grain than
mush and prints which look like they were taken with plastic lenes.
You just never run film straight. Never. Unless you were maybe
developing
sheet film in a tray. And not even then. At least go 1:1.
[Rabs]
Mark William Rabiner
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