[rollei_list] Re: Off Topic request
- From: John Wild <JWild@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: "rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 10:57:36 +0000
Ed,
I have a 3003 – an excellent camera which is used regularly. I have no issues
to talk about except the battery packs which have been talked into the ground –
just have to keep the contacts clean (I use a fibreglass pencil to gently clean
off the oxide when I get no contact) and change the cells once in a while when
they don’t charge anymore. The rapid charger is a great asset because you can
see a charge light. The small plug-top charger gives no indication and many
times I put the pack on charge for 14 hours and nothing happened . I cut one of
the cable cores so I could put an ammeter in circuit. That made the charger a
little ‘cumbersome’. I then got a rapid charger.
I do not know about the Beta 5 but I have a Beta 4 flash, which I don’t use. I
have a second one which is in pieces because the capacitor failed.
I have found that when flash capacitors fail, they either continuously part
charge and then ‘click’ when the charge reaches a certain level and then there
is an internal short because part of the insulation breaks down. Alternatively
they don’t appear to charge at all but the flash still ‘buzzes’.
If the flash does not turn on- ie buzz – it probably points to no operating
voltage. If built-in NiCd, these may have failed; if disposable cells, the
battery compartment contacts may be corroded or a connecting wire disconnected;
the on/off switch may have oxidised or battery corrosion seeped into the switch.
I have a Polaroid 360 electronic flash where the NiCd pack had corroded and the
‘white fluffy stuff’ had ‘rotted’ a number of the solder joints and the switch
was completely eaten away – repair is in progress.
TAKE CARE... If you do open the flash, ensure that the capacitor is fully
discharged – test with a multimeter. You can discharge it by connecting a
resistor across the terminals. There are recommendations as to the size of the
resistor on the internet.
The problem then is how to find replacement parts that fit. A smaller value
capacitor from a smaller flashgun may well fit but it will only give a reduced
output. If you can live with that...
The alternative is to find another unit that does not work and ‘rob Peter to
pay Paul’ but the chances are that the same parts have failed.
One last thought – Rollei soldering was c**p during that era and there well
could be a dry joint. It is worth having a close inspection with a magnifying
glass. Any solder joint that moves when the component is gently ‘wiggled’ is a
sign, also any joint that looks a bit ‘crazed’; they should all look nicely
‘wetted’.
I admit I am no expert but I can often find a fault with an ‘old transistor’
circuit – modern surface mount boards are ‘binned’.
John
On 09/12/2010 16:05, "Edward Meyers" <aghalidebw@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I use both 2000 and 3000 series Rolleis, in addition to my twin lens Rolleis. I
rarely see discussions pertaining to these cameras on the Rollei list and I
would like to.
Anyone using a Beta 5 flash? I have one, but it's not working. I'm told that
the capacitor might have died.....but I can't turn the unit on to reform it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Ed Meyers
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