At 09:32 AM 8/13/2010, you wrote:
James, I guess you're talking about the 2000/3000 battery holders and not the SLX/6000. I use the higher rated NiCd cells and have no problem. I do have the rapid charger though. My slow charger has no charge light and I found that if the holder contacts were oxidized in any, I had no way of checking if it was charging or not - so 14 hours would be wasted!. I did cut the cable so I could put an ammeter in-line and also that facilitated using a 12v car instrument lamp as a discharger. I regularly have to clean the contacts both on the camera and the battery packs. The contact area is so small, they pit & oxidize very quickly. As you say the NiMH require a different charging method. The Rollei pack, requiring 5 cells, is a PITA because you have to buy 6 cells! The holders are some form of plastic because they melt! I had one cell that shorted and glowed red hot melting the end of the holder. I cleaned it up and other than a slight bulge, is fully operational again. You could try a PVC hot-gun welder and weld in a fillet to the crack or else a hot-melt glue gun but I guess epoxy glue would do the trick. John
I have some friends who are involved in electric-powered RC airplanes and the battery technology there has progressed rapidly in the past 5 years. I would suggest looking at some of the newer chargers, they call them "Pulse Chargers" and they are designed to recognize the battery type and charge state, and bring them up to a full charge. I don't recommend NiMH cells, (or any of the newer types) because some of them have to be charged in a metal box to avoid damage if they happen to explode when being fast-charged.
I have to say that over the years I have completely stopped using rechargeable cells when Alkalines are available. The overall cost of use and the higher capacity of primary cells makes it very cost effective for me. I never had a NiCad last anywhere near the 100 charge cycles they always advertise.
DAW