Hi Eric, (Smiling) Agreed, but then there is always the opportunity to alter development times with reference to the previous test to allow for better highlight/shadow rendition in a particular instance. But.... with a roll of film, all frames have to be shot under the same conditions, unless the photographer can either accept that some frames will always not be as to his/her wishes or alternatively be prepared to chop the film up into little pieces and develop sections for different times. So, for best rendition the options must still be: large format & individual sheets; MF and interchangeable backs using a different back for each lighting situation, then to develop the when roll is finished (a Rollei 2000/3000 offers this for 35mm); expose somewhere in the 'middle'; leave it to the camera to sort out or dare I say it; go digital and check the histogram after each exposure, which, I believe is going back to a previous thread. ;-) Even then, the sensor can't record it all so you'd have to make a number of differing exposures and use some HDR software like 'Photomatix'...... ........WTH, why don't we just give up photography and take up painting, that way we can make sure the full tonal range is displayed with detail. We can then criticise each others brush strokes instead. ;-))) One of my nieces paints pet portraits. She takes a snap, goes home and paints the subject without any background to interfere. Lovely paintings. In the 'olden days' everyone trusted to luck and hoped they'd got it right. I have lost many great (or at least I reckon I have) shots by trying to adjust the camera or waiting for a 'better' scenario rather than just pressing the shutter and hoping that the camera settings were OK. Many great images are not perfectly exposed nor focused but they 'caught the moment' I've often wondered how some photographs must have been made: shutter speed nearest to ASA, F11 for bright cloudy (or what ever), focus at hyperfocal distance and 'quick on the draw'? Either that or it was a 'set-up'. Of course, they were using B&W with greater latitude anyway. Photography is a great medium; it can be simple or it can be as complex as anyone wants to make it. At the end of the day, does the photograph 'work' or not; are we pleased with our creation or not? It's so easy to to snap away but it's difficult to come up with something original and good. But when it's right........ :-))) In fact all this brings to mind another gripe of mine with regard to digital/digitised photos. More often than not the 'artist' has either used HDR to such an extent that the print looks unreal, displaying detail at all levels or that it has been so manipulated that it looks more like a painting anyway. Have a great weekend.... John On 04/09/2009 15:30, "Eric Goldstein" <egoldste@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > On Sep 4, 2009, at 5:55 AM, John Wild wrote: (snipped) > >>> I have found that with that combination, an incident reading puts tones >>> equally on the curve. However, really bright highlights and deep shadows >>> will not register. > > Hi John - > > Thanks for passing the results of your tests along. > > Relative to distribution of tones and our previous discussion... an > equal distribution will only occur if your scene happens to have an > equal distribution of tones around middle gray. As the proponents of > incident metering have been pointing out, this method of metering > yields so-called "accurate" tonal rendering (a misnomer), meaning that > a low-key scene will be rendered low key and a high key scene will be > rendered high key. > > As you note, any reflectance in the scene which is beyond the contrast > range of the film will not be placed in a usable/printable/viewable > portion of the film using this type of metering. Typical reflectance > metering (not spot metering) will place the contrast in a distribution > around middle gray regardless of the lighting conditions. A low-key > scene will be rendered middle gray, and a high key scene will be > rendered middle gray. > > > Eric Goldstein > --- > Rollei List > > - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' > in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > > - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with > 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > > - Online, searchable archives are available at > //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list > > > --- Rollei List - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Online, searchable archives are available at //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list