Hi Richard: That Sekonic sounds intersting, my Gossen Lunasix F (Luna Pro- F) has the following accesories: The Enlarging attachment for darkroom printing; the Microscope attachment for Microphotography; the Fiber Optics Probe attachment, a flexible fiber optics with a "scanner" terminal for difficult readings; the Repro(Copying) attachment to obtain exposure from flat subjects like paintings, documents,etc. and the Variable Angle Attachment that allows to do 7.5º and 15º spot metering, these are a very good number of accesories for a handheld lightmeter. I have the Variable Angle attachment for 7.5º and 15º measurements, it requires a bit of compensation with the lightmeter dial but it's an useful and interesting accesory for previously planned photographs. If I take portraits with back lit illumination, I don't expose for highlights, I expose for shadows using the dome, it produces an about right exposure for the subject and the back lit is overexposed creating a nice effect around the subject IMO, these are two samples (It's not Friday but I don't have a better explanation for my point): http://www.flickr.com/photos/itarfoto/798248832/ For this one I compensated the exposure only a bit for highlights: http://www.flickr.com/photos/itarfoto/2350071738/ Carlos --- El mar 1-sep-09, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> escribió: > The Sekonic meter is interesting. > It has three attachments for measurement, a grid, for > reflected light, and two diffusers for incident light, a > flat one for measuring single sources and a dome or > hemisphere for giving a sort of averaged reading > depending on the location of the light with regard to the > camera angle. I am at the moment drawing complete blanks on > the name of the fellow who came up with this idea and the > original name of the meter. It was intended for motion > picture use originally. The reflected light grid was meant > for measuring the subject contrast using close readings. The > flat diffuser was intended for measuring lighting ratios, > i.e., the relative brightness of key vs: fill light, and the > dome for overall exposure. The latter makes an assumption I > am not sure is valid. That is, that the correct exposure for > a subject or scene should be based on the average of the > light striking it from various angles rather than the actual > brightness of some fixed reflectance value. As an example, > suppose one has a mostly back lit low key scene where most > of the dome is shadowed when pointed from subject to camera > (this is how the thing is to be used). The result will be an > exposure essentially for the shadow areas whereas, for low > key, one wants the exposure to be essentially for the > highlights even though they may occupy only a small area of > the scene. Since the brightness of areas of subjects may be > independant of the angle of the light a meter of this sort > may be quite misleading as to correct exposure. > Another thing which bothers me is the > adjustment of negative contrast according to scene contrast. > This may be useful in insuring that the film records the > full range of brightness in the scene but may be misleading > when printing. There are scientific uses of photography > where a low contrast negative may be desirable because some > detail is wanted in both fairly dark shadows and in fairly > bright highlights. However, the full contrast range of > such a negative can not be reproduced by any normal printing > method, especially not by reflection prints to be > illuminated by ambient light (as opposed to being in a > light box). The Zone System worries a lot about > "placement" of various densities on negatives and on prints > but doesn't seem to take into account that contrast can be > adjusted in the printing step and sometimes must not be > linear as when burning and dodging are done or masking using > variable contrast paper. For instance, some of Ansel Adams > beautiful prints of extended brightness range subjects are > more the result of manipulation in printing than from the > use of Zone System exposure although an understanding of the > principals can insure that the negative has the necessary > data on it for doing this. > BTW, I disagree with the statement (which I > snipped) by a previous poster that film has a two stop > underexposure latitude. When the speed is determined by the > ISO method there is almost no underexposure latitude since > the method is intended to find the minimum exposure that > will result in good shadow detail. One can underexpose > somewhat but there will be a loss of shadow detail. OTOH, > there is an enormous overexpsure latitude, maybe as much as > ten stops for some films. > > -- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > --- > Rollei List > > - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into > www.freelists.org > > - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into > www.freelists.org > > - Online, searchable archives are available at > //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list > > Yahoo! Cocina Encontra las mejores recetas con Yahoo! Cocina. http://ar.mujer.yahoo.com/cocina/ --- Rollei List - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Online, searchable archives are available at //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list