[rollei_list] Metering Chromes (was, 2.8D)
- From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 16:48:51 -0400
At 12:04 PM 3/18/2008, Thor Legvold wrote:
>
>I've *never* tried shooting without a meter (maybe once or twice in
>B&W years ago), and had no system to go by, and had slide film
>(Provia 100) in the camera. So I wasn't expecting anything special at
>all.
Thor
Now, I DO wish Bob Shell was still among our=20
number, as he and I used to argue over chromes=20
(slide film) which he insisted required an=20
exposure within 1/3 of a stop. In general terms,=20
with modern emulsions, you certainly can go three=20
or four stops up and two stops down with=20
black-and-white and at least two up and two down=20
with C-41 and still get a decent print, though=20
C-41 emulsions may show some color shift at two=20
stops off-base. The normal view, pace Bob, is=20
that chromes will accommodate one stop up and one=20
down and still produce a printable (Ilfochrome or=20
the like) if not a projectable image. Despite=20
this, Bob always swore by chromes and always=20
struggled to reach his 1/3 of a stop accuracy. I=20
said then that this was so much pomposity and I feel so today.
There are several pointers to bear in mind.
For daylight work, the "sunny 16" rule is worthy=20
of consideration, even with slide films: in=20
bright sun and open scenes (no shade on the=20
subject), set the camera at f/16 with the speed=20
at the reciprocal of the film speed. Thus, with=20
Provia, this would work out to f/16 at=20
1/125". Check it out with a meter. It=20
works. You reduce as the light declines, either=20
through overcast or through evening or morning=20
low-light conditions. Work with this and develop=20
some experience, as the good old Mark I eyeball=20
is misleading: we see the scene an hour after=20
sunrise as equally as bright as it will be at=20
noon, but, then, we also have an f/stop mechanism=20
in our eyes, so we really have to train ourselves.
For daylight work, selenium meters more closely=20
match the response pattern of modern emulsions=20
than do other metering systems such as CdS or SPD=20
or Gallium Arsenide. For daylight work, use a=20
selenium meter and train yourself in the sunny 16=20
rule. The two deathlessly accurate meters in=20
modern cameras are those in the second version of=20
the Leica M6 and in the Rolleiflex 2.8GX or FX,=20
and these can also serve as worthy training aids,=20
though, for daylight uses, a Weston 715 will do you better.
For indoor work, a CdS or later meter is mandated=20
as these are more sensitive.
I regularly shoot chromes with my Contax II=20
without resort to a lightmeter and most shots=20
generally come out as capable of projection.
Marc
msmall@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cha robh b=E0s fir gun ghr=E0s fir!
---
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