[rollei_list] Re: Early 2.8F models

  • From: `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 13:46:35 -0800

I have a 2.8E bought many years ago. Looked clean but turned out to be a beater. Took it to Harry and had it overhauled. Came out like new and still works after at least ten years. The Xenotar is extremely sharp. There has always been some controversy over whether the Xenotar or Planar was the best lens but I think mostly its imagination although the lens designs are not identical.

On 2/21/2017 12:13 PM, Jan Decher wrote:

Hi Javier,

My main reasons for getting an F would be the simpler single zone (and probably more reliable) Gossen meter and the removable hood…
I had an 2.8E Planar (1959) in the early 90s and it was definitely beginning to show its age. My 3.5E (Xenotar) seems much more solid (or not as abused).

Jan


On Feb 21, 2017, at 8:05 PM, Javier Herraiz <javier.herraiz@xxxxxxx <mailto:javier.herraiz@xxxxxxx>> wrote:

After many years as a silent subscriber of Rollei list I dare to write a post looking for some advice.

I’m in the market for a Rolleiflex 2.8F. For financial reasons I’m looking for a camera with a Xenotar lens, that I assume it can be bought cheaper than those fitted with Planars. For the same reason I’m also looking for older versions, dating around 1960-1962.

But I have read somewhere that very early F models had a special linkage between the shutter speed wheel and the shutter, something similar, but not the same that EV number system in Rolleiflex E models. This part would be complicated, and hence speed wheel hard to operate and prone to fail. Does anyone know if this is true? If it is, should these cameras be avoided? When was this feature changed to the regular F version?

Your knowledge would be of great help. Thank you very much.

Javier



--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
WB6KBL

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