[rollei_list] Re: Checking shutter speeds...

  • From: "Gene Johnson" <genej2ster@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 16:35:36 -0800

If you're really cheap (like me) you can try this: remove both lens
cells.  If you don't know how to remove the front and rear cells, ask
me or somebody else who knows how. put one or two drops of lighter
fluid right on the shutter blades and run the shutter through the
speeds starting at like 1/100th and working your way down.  If it
starts to get sluggish, go back up one speed.  Let it dry out
COMPLETELY.  See how it works.  If it's still sluggish at the slow
speeds, repeat the process.  This works pretty great about 1/2 the
time.  And a lot of these things are gonna be 1/2 stop slow at the
slow speeds by now anyway.  So if the one second ends up at a second
and a half, but is consistent, consider yourself a winner.

On 2/14/07, Mark Delman <hmdelman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
If you have a bunch of cameras you want to check, you might consider
purchasing a used shutter speed tester on e-bay.  These are easy to use and
accurate.  I think one might cost $100.

-Mark

Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Frazier"
To: ;

Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:19 AM
Subject: [rollei_list] Checking shutter speeds...


> Listers,
>
> The shutter came unstuck, all on it's own, and I'm
> exercising it now, again, and it seems to be loosening
> up. The speeds above 1/30th don't stick, but all lower
> speeds do.
>
> Is there a method for checking shutter speeds, using the
> gear and tools that any well-equipped photographer might
> have?
>
> Ken

The shutter is sticking because the lubricant used on it
has become gummed up. It needs to be cleaned and
relubricated. Modern practice is to use synthetic lubricants
that do not oxidize and become gummy. Also, some repair
people put too much lubricant on the shutter, very little is
needed.
Stuck blades also can indicate that there is something
on the shutter blades, perhaps some oil. In a proper
cleaning the shutter is disassembled down to the blade
assembly and all of it cleaned. Blades, and the blade drive
ring, are never lubricated, they rely on a very smooth
finish and being exactly parallel for smooth operation.
The higher speeds will often work because they do not
require the use of the clockwork speed regulator.
While its possible to clean a shutter yourself a fair
amount of mechanical work is necessary to get it out of the
camera for proper cleaning. You can try just putting a
little Naptha on the regulator gears but that is often only
a temporary fix. Getting to that requires removing the front
cover of the camera and opening the shutter.
The Rolleiflex repair manuals offered for sale on the
internet cover the later models, not the MX and other
earlier Rolleis. Also, there is not much info on the
shutters there. There is a reprint Compur manual available
(maybe even a free download) and that is more help. There
are also reprint National Camera textbooks available. These
will give you step-by-step instructions. However, they are
in sections and get expensive.
Mostly fairly simple tools are needed but you will have
to make some of them. The screws used on Rolleis, and many
other cameras, have quite thin slots, most standard
jeweller's screwdrivers will be too thick. To work with
these take a set of cheap jeweller's screwdrivers and grind
down the ends using a sharpening stone until they fit. If
you use too narrow a driver, in order to get one with a thin
enough blade, you will damage the screw.
The adhesive used on the leather covers allows peeling
off. A little alcohol will help. Often, the leather can be
replaced by simply wetting the back with alcohol and
smoothing it down. Rollei refers to the adhesive by a German
brand name but it is evidently a shellack. If someone has
used rubber cement or contact cement you may have difficulty
getting the leather off. Acetone or Xylol may be helpful
with this when applied with a small brush.
A trip to a good Rollei tech (H.Fleenor comes to mind)
will cost some dough but you will get back a nearly new
camera which will not need service again for years.

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

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