[rollei_list] Re: B&W film developing
- From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx>
- To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 12 May 2014 10:01:50 +0200
Hello Thor,
An acquaintance has made a thorough tests on, sad for you, HP5+.
He demonstrate that if you want you can expose the 400 ISO film down to
10 EI and get excellent results.
As I use 5x4 and roll film, I've calibrated my process for 5x4 and use
the figures for roll film.
The rationale is to overexpose a bit in order to have something recorded
in the shadows, then get all highlights because modern film have never
ending curves apt to record 10 stops or more.
So the only parameter left is to determine how much time in the dev
you've to use not to get too much contrast to make the negs unprintable
on 00 grade paper.
If I were you, I would take the camera, put the meter at about a half
stop less than the advertised ISO of the film and fill the film with the
same picture of good contrast.
Back in the lab I'll cut the film in 3 parts and develop one for the
"indicated time" in the dev you want to use.
fix, rinse and dry and assert the contrast (scanner, densitometer,
printing, whatever)
If lucky you're done. If not develop another third using either :
A shorter time in the dev if your negs are too contrasty
A longer time in the dev if your negs are not contrasty enough.
If lucky, you're done. If not you still have the third part of the film
to adjust ....
If you're nerdy enough you can adjust the shadow detail on your negs by
adjusting a little the sensitivity dialled on the meter a bit...
Morality : a couple of films, an afternoon in the lab and you're done...
Hope this helps.
P.S. bear in mind that the printing paper does not react as a scanner.
So if you intend to scan your negs ascertain the contrast by using your
scanner and getting proper images on your printer.... Settings can be a
bit different for scanning than for conventional B&W printing.
Le 12/05/2014 00:00, Thor Legvold a écrit :
Quick question for the people here on the list(s).
I’m working on getting my exposure and developmen dialed in, and have read some
conflicting info.
"Expose for shadows, develop for highlights" seems to be the mantra.
Ansel would like every exposure to be visualized, exposed accordingly and developed
individually to adjust for contrast. But he used sheet film with 40’s - 50’s
emulsions. Some online articles say it doesn’t really matter with modern B&W
films and you can’t adjust development for a frame on a roll anyway.
With roll-film and more a more modern emulsion (using APX100 and Tri-X 400),
how applicable/neccessary is the full-on zone system?
I’ve been testing “placing” values on different frames and have tried
developing at both 5 minutes and 7 minutes, Rodinal 1:25 at 24C in a Jobo
(constant agitation). Both tests seemed to provide good results, and now I’m
curious how precise I need to be to get the best overall negative with as much
printable information as possible. With both nice tonality and good contrast.
My current setup doesn’t allow me to print yet, and I wonder if there’s any way
to use f.x. a scanner to measure density or at least confirm that I’m getting
the most out of my negatives. I do plan on printing them on paper at some
point, but first want to get my exposure and development down as ideally as
possible. Sending them off to a lab to have them measured on a densiometer is
also an option, if that’s the way to go.
Maybe some of the hardcore analogue guys can weigh in? Daniel, Sanders,
Slobodan, Dan?
Thanks,
Thor
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