[rollei_list] Re: 220 film made at home
- From: John Wild <JWild@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: "rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 13:51:03 +0100
Carlos,
I have an interesting query for you..
Emmanuel Bigler wrote an article for the magazine - Issue 21 - which is
posted on our website at
http://rollei.org.uk/2011/07/the-rolleiflex-as-an-icon/
The comment refers to the author having a large model of the Baby
Rolleiflex. I was wondering if this is actually the large model of the 6x6
Rolleiflex seen in photos in Prochnow's books or even, although it seems a
bit large, one of the 9x9 cameras.
You may like to post a reply, but will have to register unless you have
already done so.
Regards
John
On 15/07/2012 22:36, "CarlosMFreaza" <cmfreaza@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 2012/7/14 CarlosMFreaza <cmfreaza@xxxxxxxxx>:
>
>> I was thinking it would be pretty easy to make a B&W 220 roll film at
>> home using two 120 rolls,..
>
> Ok, I made my 220 film but with the following clarifications: 1) I
> already had the initial 220 paper and the final 220 paper that I kept
> from the 220 TX 320 films I used last year, in other words, I needn't
> to cut paper from an used 120 film paper back.- 2) I joined two wasted
> 120 film I have for experiments and then I worked with light, things
> are a lot easier with light. 3) I used the original adhesive tape to
> stick the film to the initial paper (the tape still was in the paper)
> and since I used the 3.5F to try my "220" film there was no problem to
> engage the film counter the first time for the firsts 12 frames, the
> problem was to engage the film counter for the last 12 frames to
> complete the 24 frames, but it worked finally.
>
> The key point is the way you join both films (you also need to solve
> the issues about to stick the papers to the film, you could do it
> before to join both films or after to do it) first I joined both
> films using a very thin tape for packages because I did not have a
> thicker adhesive tape like the tape used to stick paper back and film,
> I cut the tape according the film width and respecting about 25mm
> (more or less) for the band "height"; it was not so easy to keep the
> exact alignment between both films, I finally used the spool to do it,
> but it will be more difficult in the darkness, anyway I made two
> errors: 1) The tape was too thin to activate the film feeler mechanism
> for the second time, 2) I stuck the tape on the films emulsion side,
> the right one is the film basis side. I found an adhesive tape band
> in one of the used film papers back and corrected both errors
> replacing the tape, this time the 3.5F film counter engaged for the
> second time after to open and to close the camera back before to
> advance the film when I shot the frame 12 ( to return the counter to
> 0, a 'flex prepared for 220 has means to do it without to open the
> back), this way I could shoot other 12 frames to complete 24 frames.
> You could know the emulsion side in the darkness if you join both 120
> films keeping the original adhesive tape in the film side used for the
> original paper back, in fact you can use this tape to stick the
> initial 220 paper.
>
> Now I think it could be useful a slight overlapping to join both
> films, it could help to find the films alignement in the darkness and
> you could use a thinner tape to activate the film feeler mechanism for
> the second time, but it would be also necessary to try this way
> previously.
>
> If you have a camera prepared to use 220 film and you want to use B&W
> 220 film, perhaps it would be interesting to try this 220 film "made
> at home" sometimes.
>
> Carlos .
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