[pure-silver] Re: holga focus and how do you scan a negative properly
- From: Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 07:41:31 -0800 (PST)
Becky Two things you can try that might help. If you are getting that kind of
detail, one thing that might help is to use a flatter light. You may need to
adjust the lights on the stand to an angle that is a little more direct while
insuring even light. The other thing you may be looking at is noise. I have
had that happen too, especially with scans. A noise removal tool for digital I
am beginning to believe is almost a must. Photoshop has one, but I use a plug
in called Noise Ninja that works very well and helps with sharpening ect.
If its just dust, rather than a swiffer (which very well may work well but may
scratch) Id use a can of compressed air on it first. It should blow just loose
lint off without a scratch risk. If it doesn't work you can always try other
methods and compressed air is something you probably already have around. If
not its only a few bucks for a can.
B P <peeperphotos@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: Gianni,
I used the copy stand at the college to copy them with my dslr... The texture
of the paper was lit up and looked bad. There was also the problem with lint on
the print. I read from Shannon that I can use a swiffer so I could try that
before scanning or copping prints, next time. I liked the ease of using the
copy stand but then found that the work to try and "fix" the image afterwards,
was too much work. I'll go put one of the copies from the copy stand, back up
for you to see. Maybe you can tell me what I did wrong.
http://picasaweb.google.com/peeperphotos/Holga
Becky Lynn
On 11/9/07, Gianni Rondinini <freelists@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: B P ha
scritto:
> Thank you all for your helpful advice. :) Very helpful, indeed.
i forgot to write something: the 'shooting at the film' technique has
another advantage. it takes seconds instead of minutes for each image
you digitalize.
first of all you need to spend spending 10 minutes finding the best and
exact settings for your dslr, then you use the camera in fully manual
(attention: also white balance must be! otherwise the camera will try to
remove the eventual intentional cast you may have introduced when
shooting) and can digitalize literally hundreds of slides or negatives
in an evening getting the best result you dslr and macro lens can give you.
if you use a d2xs with a 105micro lens you get 12mpx images of your
negative or slide, which is better than what we've been able to get with
different high quality scanners (that took *ages* to acquire 15 slides
or b&w negatives).
regards,
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