[pure-silver] Re: duplicate info
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2005 12:15:26 -0700
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Peeters" <marc.peeters@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 12:49 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] duplicate info
Subject: duplicate info
I need some information for what I can expect for the next
job.
At this moment it is to hot here in Belgium for going into
ma darkroom. We have about 30°C during the day which mean
in my darkroom 6-7° more.
But a friend of the family asked me to make a new picture
for his grandfather. The picture was made in the year 35.
There is no negative so I need to make a new one.
Dimensions of the pictures are 50cm x 70 cm (+- 20 x 26).
He asked me to make a new picture with the same size.
I'm planning to make a new negative with my 6x6 Hasselblad.
Which lens can I use for the best result 50 - 80 ore 150 ??
Is it better to use it with rings (I have 10 and 21). Do I
need to put a glass on the picture before I make a new
negative or gives this to much reflections ??
I usually use T-max 100, is this OK or is there something
better for these things ??
And what can I expect from the general result ?? Will it
have the same sharpness or much less ??
Thanks a lot
Marc
There have been a number of replys to this but none seem
to have asked about the nature of the original picture.
First, is it black and white or color.
What kind of surface does the print have.
If its black and white you can use filters to reduce the
effect of stains or spots. The filter should be the same
color as the stain or spot.
Surface reflections can be controlled by polarizing
filters on the lights and on the lens.
Longer lenses will have more even illumination than
shorter ones.
The sharpness will depend on the quality of the lens. For
an image this large you can probably duplicate it pretty
well.
For a color image that is damaged more repair can be made
electronically than photographically but some correction can
be made by using color negative film and correcting the
balance in printing.
Use the slowest, sharpest film you can obtain. For B&W
Kodak 100T-Max or Fuji Acros are good choices. Beause the
print will have both shadow and highlight compression you
may find it difficult to duplicate its full tone range.
Kodak used to make a special film for this kind of
duplicating but its long discontinued. I don't know how to
get around this without using contrast masks. Its easy
enough to modify electronically.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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