[pure-silver] Re: Old paper andDefendre 58-D
- From: Don Sweet <don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:53:51 +1300
Thanks again for all contributions on this and the previous thread.
My understanding is that age-related fog in paper is due to chemical changes
caused by some form of radiation that penetrates the packaging and partially
exposes the paper. Is that right?
Does it have the same effect as pre-development flashing, i.e. nudging
everything up the curve a bit? And if that is right, I suppose bleaching
brings it back down the curve, provided you use a cutting bleach rather than
a proportional one - OK?
Is there any sort of developer formulation (or additive) that does the same
thing at the development stage?
Is this Rlibersky chap on to something?
Don Sweet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Pure-Silver Free" <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 5:52 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Old paper andDefendre 58-D
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <C.Breukel@xxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:40 AM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Old paper andDefendre 58-D
>
>
> We had recently some discussion on how to process old
> outdated photo
> paper: I mentioned Defender 58-D. Got this through I guy on
> APUG.
>
> He (Rlibersky) has now a very intersesting post up (at least
> I think
> it's interesting), with examples:
>
> You might want to check out:
>
> http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/47681-old-paper-again.html#post593795
>
> Best,
>
> Cor
>
> Well, this was enough to get me to re-register with
> apug. The images are interesting. They display a lot less
> fog than I got trying some old Agfa and Kodak paper I've had
> in storage for probably fifteen years. The warm tone stuff
> was useless, it looked light struck.
> The strong yellow cast of some of the sample prints is
> curious. This looks like overall stufiding rather than the
> sort of chemical fog I would expect. A couple of samples
> look OK, at least from the scans. Note that Azo and Velox
> are very slow papers intended for contact printing and Opal
> was a very slow enlarging paper. In general, the slower the
> paper the less affected it will be by fog. I am astounded
> that 1931 Velox would even produce an image.
> Velox, which I used extensively at one time, has always
> had a definite bluish black almost regardless of the
> developer used. It was Kodak's standard paper for
> photofinishers and beginning amateurs. Actually a very good
> paper that I think would be popular now. Azo was a very slow
> (2/3rds the speed of Velox) contact paper but varied over
> the many decades it was made. At some times being neutral
> black and other versions being somewhat warm black.
> Professional Azo was a warm tone paper made simultaneously
> with regular Azo.
> Defender formulas were mostly Kodak formulas used with
> permission. Kodak tried to keep Defender in business as a
> protection against anti-trust actions. However, Defender did
> have some unique formulas and 58D seems to be one of them.
> Chlorhydroquinone (AKA Adurol) behaves similarly to a
> mixture of Hydroquinone and Metol. It was occasionally used
> as a warm tone developer. Chlorhydroquinone developers are
> resistant to aerial fog, that is, oxidation fog from
> exposure of the paper or film to the air during development.
> This makes it suitable for use in drums and for
> old-fashioned rack and tank motion picture processing. BTW,
> Pyro is also resistant to aerial fog. However, this is not
> the same source of fog that one finds in old stock. That
> comes from the generation of development centers by slow
> chemical change in the emulsion. 58D is worth trying if you
> can find the chlorhydroquinone but I would not count on it
> for any sort of magic results.
> FWIW here is the formula:
>
> Defender 58D Chlor-Hydroquinone Developer (Stock Solution)
> For warm tones on Varigam paper
> Water (at 125F or 52C) 500.0 ml
> Sodium sulfite, dessicated 16.0 grams
> chlorhydroquinone 4.0 grams
> Sodium carbonate, anhydrous 16.0 grams
> Potassium bromide 0.5 grams
> Water to make 1.0 liter
>
> Dilute one part stock to one part water for use.
>
> If sodium carbonate, monohydrated is used the amount is 18.7
> grams
>
> The instructions are for Varigam which was a neutral
> tone paper. They state:
> It is necessary to develop for 4 minutes at 68F to
> obtain the maximum black of the paper, at which time the
> tone is just perceptibly warmer than with 55D. Shorter
> development times with increased exposure will sacrifice the
> maximum black somewhat but warmer tones are obtained. Prints
> developed in this seveloper when toned willl give warmer
> tones throughout the seeries whan when 55D is used.
>
> Note: Defender 55D is identical to Kodak D-52, AKA Selectol.
>
> It seems to me that I've seen other chlorhydroquinone
> formulas but can't find any at the moment.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
============================================================================
=================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
