[pure-silver] Re: Hardening fixer for film

  • From: Jeffrey Thorns <puresilver@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 06:16:32 -0700

I was under the impression that Sistan (or its equivalent) needed to be the LAST step. ie If you rinsed after the Sistan, the Sistan rinsed out and was no longer there for protection.


??



Dear Jefferey,

I use Tetenals Hardener for the films in thje last bath.

So I do

develop-> stop/rinse -> fix -> rinse -> SISTAN stabiliser -> short rinse-> AGEPON (wetting agent) WITH HARDENER

As for squeegeeing, I NEVER do that with a squeegee. I use my fingers, These are ususally quite soft (he he he :-)), esp. when you muck around in water for a while. Plus as an added bonus they are really lint-free. I hang the wet films and then run my fingers like a squeegeee down the length of the film.

Works fine and I never get scratches.

I use the paper ("Pergamin") pouches for the films, these have very soft edges. Plus the plastic has much harder edges, I stay away from that. I only use the clear plastic for slide films and then very carefully. I don´t like the polyethylene plastic ones because when you pull the film oujt it often gets electrically charged and seems to attract every loose dust particle within 10 light years!

Like Pig Pen :-)

Love,
Snoopy

At 23:43 15.04.2007, you wrote:
Does anyone on the list use a hardening fix for film?

The reason I ask is that I sometimes get very faint scratches on my (35mm) film. (You might not notice them in a small print, but they show in an 11x14.) I don't squeegee my film after processing, and I try to keep the inside of the camera clean, so I am assuming that it happens when I slide the film into the pages.

I use a non-hardening fix right now, and thought maybe I'd see less scratching if I used a hardening fix.

(I use mainly Fuji Acros, and develop in WD2D+.)

Any thoughts?

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Snoopy EDV-Beratung

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