DEAR RICHARD, I believe the baryta (barium sulfate) coating is under the gelatin layers and not suspended in them (Neblette, Mees & James). Recently I tried etching out a black spot in a print with a sharp tool instead of bleaching it out (or spotting the neg) and was a little over enthusiastic. I saw the image/gelatin layer(s?) come off and found the nice powdery white layer underneath. Good thing I had more prints! CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Richard Knoppow Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 10:54 PM To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Cleaning a Drum Dryer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Stephenson" <photographica@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 3:15 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Cleaning a Drum Dryer > Amateur stepping up to bat: *why* does no one ferrotype > prints these days? With that rotten plastic paper, I can > understand it, but there's still some good *real* paper > (requiring the death of trees) out there. I always > thought that an "F" (Kodak's designation for glossy) > print, ferrotype-dried (hot or cold), was the bees knees > for showing fine detail and incredibly long tonal scale. > But...what do I know? I can't even be sure that I can get > into trouble, although I'm a fair hand at messes. > > -Bill There is a misaprehension above, RC paper _is_ made of paper but its coated on both sides with plastic and has a different reflective layer. There is just as much paper in it as in "fiber" or more correctly untreated paper. One reason that RC looks different is the reflective layer. Fiber paper has one or more layers of hard gelatin made reflective by including a suspension of Barium Sulfate as the reflective material. RC paper has a suspension of Titanium Dioxide in the front coating of plastic. This plastic coating can be made mirror smooth so RC "glossy" surface is very glossy without any after treatment. Fiber glossy has an overcoating of gelatin. When its dried in intimate contact with a smooth surface the result is a glossy print. At best fiber glossy is just as mirror smooth as RC glossy. Glossy prints are still associated with mass produced prints and photofinisher's prints, i.e., cheap. Despite this the glossy surface has the longest range of gray scale of any surface. Ferrotyping can be carried out in several ways. Probably the best quality, and certainly the simplest method, is to dry the prints after rolling them in contact with flawless chrome plated sheets. Other materials can be used, even glass, but must be polished down and waxed or else the emulsion will stick to them. Once stuck a print is almost impossible to remove without some damage. Actually, I rather like glossy prints but they require careful lighting to avoid strong specular reflection from the surface. --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ============================================================================ ================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.