[pure-silver] Re: Building sink again
- From: "BOB KISS" <bobkiss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 12:16:56 -0400
DEAR FRANK,
I made my sink out of ¾ marine ply, and caulked the inside corners
with marine caulk. I then primed it with oil base white paint, sanded it
lightly, wiped it our and then applied two coats of automobile white paint
with light sandings and wipings in between each coat. The auto paint is
pretty durable.
CHEERS!
BOB
________________________________________
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of EJ Neilsen
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 12:00 PM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Building sink again
Frank, As a deep sink user I can only say that I love it. I too use the edge
to rest my hand on but my fingers are plenty long enough to reach the tray
and I flip my prints rater than just rock so it is more of a resting spot.
I stand in at 5? 10? and a sink base that sits at 36? or 38? works fine as
a resting height for my hands. So if you are reaching too far down, maybe
the bottom of your sink is too low rather than the side too high. Another
advantage to high side is that the angle of the trays after rinsing is more
so they drip dry faster. Where do splashes come from in my darkroom? While
you are picking up the print to move it from one tray to the next, and you
are letting the solution wick away from the surface of the print through
surface tension, the height of the corner of the print CAN cause a splash.
This is a bigger problem when you are in a hurry which is not the norm but
can happen. I just prefer to keep it all in the sink rather than on me, my
cloths, or the floor where it can migrate to any where in the house/lab/
chicken coupe ?.
AS for cutting the sink down afterwards, that should not be a problem. Most
reasonable saw will have a portable rail that can be attached and the edges
rounded with a router or trim tool for laminate work ( basically a smaller
router). I?d be more concerned about dust. If needed run a shop vac with
HEPA 3 filter while you make your cut and MOST dust will be captured.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype ejprinter
________________________________________
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Frank Filippone
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 9:13 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Building sink again
I know several people have suggested having sinks that are 8 inches
deep?.. I have a commercial ( $149) ABS sink that is around 5 deep and I
think it has advantages at that height. #1.. if the sink is 8 inches deep,
you have to reach DOWN 8 inches to reach the bottom and do anything. Are
your arms long enough? Do you have a bad back that pains you if you have to
reach down for long periods of time? Why not make the plywood sides 8
inches, TRY IT OUT DRY, un nailed, and un painted, then adjust as needed???
The way I use my sink is to use the top lip as a leaning bar, and my wrists
and arms reach in and slightly down to get to the trays. If the drop to the
bottom of the sink is too much. I would need to reach down too much and
makes my back sore.
You are worried about splashing over the lip and onto the floor? Even 3-4
inches is enough to protect against that. The water does not splash up very
easily?. It splashes out and down.
Cutting down a too high sink should prove fun?? I can not imagine trying
this with a saw ( circular, skil, table, reciprocating or hand.) You will
get rough edges that will make you miserable. Best make it right the first
time?..
It is your sink, so make it your way?. But too deep is not my
recommendation??
Frank Filippone
red735i@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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