[pure-silver] Re: Building a darkroom sink
- From: David Starr <davestarr@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 09:07:57 -0500
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:12:12 -0600, "Mark Blackwell"
<mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Well it looks like I am finally going to have space to build a custom
>darkroom sink. Will have to be built because of size and plumbing
>considerations.
>
>My first reaction is to build it with wood, seal the cracks with silicone
>caulk and then fiberglass over it. Paint would then be either an epoxy or a
>boat paint. Part of me say I might need marine plywood, but with the
>fiberglass and paint . Im also going to build a top to go over the top that
>will fit in that make the sink serve as a table should the need arise.
>
>If its practical wood would be the preferred material because I have far
>more woodworking skills than anything else. And yea I hate plumbing like
>most people.
>
>Who knows this maybe the the plumbing project Ive dreamed of all my life.
>Whats that? Well hopefully one day before I die, I will start a plumbing
>project, plan it out, make one trip to the hardware or plumbing store to get
>everything I need, come home, put it all together and have everything go
>together exactly as I planned it, with no leaks and no extra trips to the
>store needed. Will it happen? I doubt it but its a nice dream.
>
>Mark
ONE trip to the store?? I've never been able to accomplish that with ANY
project I've done. :-) My sink is built from 3/4" exterior plywood, glued &
screwed together. Then, I coated it with 3 coats of West System marine epoxy,
and painted with "topside" boat paint. The only problem I've had is the paint
staining from C-41 chemicals. It's 3 years old, and no leaks at all. The sink
is 8ft long, 30" wide, 8" deep at the front, and 35" high. The back is higher
to accomodate faucets and a shelf.
With the darkroom in the basement, I had to build it in place. Not ideal, but
it worked. My sink has a very slight slope toward the drain, enough to drain
it, but not so much that the leveling wedges for a Jobo won't work.
One caveat if you use the West System epoxy - when it cures fully, "waxy" layer
on top that has to be sanded off before recoating. I used "sanding sponges"
made for drywall & wet sanded. It didn't take all that long to do. I could
have put subsequent coats on without sanding if I hadn't waited overnight
between coats.
One other thing - double the thickness of the front edge. It's a lot more
comfortable to rest your arms on.
There's a couple pictures of mine on my web page.
http://destarr.com/darkroom-1.html
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Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant.
Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography
Web Site: www.destarr.com
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