[pure-silver] Re: Building a darkroom sink

  • From: Claudio Bonavolta <claudio@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 10:32:58 +0100

----- Message d'origine -----
De: "Mark Blackwell" <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:12:12 -0600
Sujet: [pure-silver] Building a darkroom sink
À: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

>Well it looks like I am finally going to have space to build a custom 
>darkroom sink.  Will have to be built because of size and plumbing 
>considerations.
>
>My first reaction is to build it with wood, seal the cracks with silicone 
>caulk and then fiberglass over it.  Paint would then be either an epoxy or a 
>boat paint.  Part of me say I might need marine plywood, but with the 
>fiberglass and paint .  Im also going to build a top to go over the top that 
>will fit in that make the sink serve as a table should the need arise.
>
>If its practical wood would be the preferred material because I have far 
>more woodworking skills than anything else.  And yea I hate plumbing like 
>most people.
>
>Who knows this maybe the the plumbing project Ive dreamed of all my life. 
>Whats that?  Well hopefully one day before I die, I will start a plumbing 
>project, plan it out, make one trip to the hardware or plumbing store to get 
>everything I need, come home, put it all together and have everything go 
>together exactly as I planned it, with no leaks and no extra trips to the 
>store needed.  Will it happen?  I doubt it but its a nice dream.
>
>Mark 
>
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Dear Mark,

I built mine with standard MDF (a kind of wood particles board) that were cut 
to the right dimensions by the shop.
MDF is not really good looking, but is very stable and easy to work with.
As my darkroom is in the basement, I had to assemble it in the darkroom, not 
really ideal.

Bottom was made of a dual layer of thick (22mm, ~1/10") MDF board glued and 
screwed together for rigidity.
All other wally were made of a single layer.
As I also do color with a Jobo processor, I preferred to keep the sink flat. 
It's easy to drain the remaining water with a squeegee.
Front wall is larger so the arms can rest on comfortably.
Total height and a good floor carpet are also important for comfortable work.

I applied two layers of a special very fluid varnish (an outdoor version used 
for chalets here in Switzerland ...) that penetrates deeply in the wood fibers. 
It takes time to dry ...
That varnish was also applied on all outside faces, bottom included.
This prevents the wood to absorb/release humidity and keep it dimensionally 
stable, this avoids any further crack.

The final paint was a nasty bi-component polyurethane, the kind used as 
heavy-duty garage floor paint. That paint stinks incredibly (I kept the 
ventilation on for a couple of days) until it dries, then it doesn't smell 
anymore.
I put 3 layers and was particularly generous on the bottom so all joints are 
filled. I put some silicone over the paint on the joints but this is 
superfluous.
That paint was also applied on the drain hole's walls.

This sink is 5 years old now and doesn't show any sign of wear.

Regarding the plumbing, I built a water panel. That was my first plumbing 
experience and may well remain the only one :-)
Everything went surprisingly well !
I included a LCD flat panel for my wet-side computer and process monitoring 
program. I'm still impressed by the result (<- big sense of pride) ...
As you'll see on the pictures, I've the bad habit to mix water and electricity 
to closely, so do better than me, put more space between them and, *absolute 
rule*, use a GFI breaker circuit.

And a few pictures ...
- my lab: http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/mylab.htm
- the sink: http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/sink.htm
- the water panel: http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/waterpanel.htm

Good luck,
Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch
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