[pure-silver] Re: Biking and photography

  • From: Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 19:53:55 -0700 (PDT)

Its a good idea, but I decided on some padding options IF they work.  Never 
thought about a sleeping bag pad though.  Great idea.  I did decide on two what 
I think are very good options.  First for the sides, I found a roll of a blue 
foam insulation that is almost the perfect width for the sides.  Its  a 
plastic, almost bubble wrap in nature, but its such that if on an impact the 
wood should splinter, it wouldn't pop the air pockets and all protection be 
gone.  With a double or even triple thickness there should be plenty of 
protection and at $5 I can always redo it. 

For the top and bottom, I picked up something that was designed for a cushion.  
Thicker with plenty of give to help with some of the vibrations.   This might 
hold water, but its advertised as being washable, so a quick cycle and all the 
dust and dirt should get washed away.  The sleeping bag pad though would be far 
less likely to pick it up and trap it.

I am confident that the attach points are secure, but I am going to test it 
with the old Kiev 60 first. lol  Id hate to have it damaged, but would hate it 
worse if other cameras I have were.

My biggest worry is condensation.  Its also one that is probably almost 
impossible to control.  The only thing I can think of is some of those silica 
gel packs.

Its been a frustrating at times project, but one I think will be very rewarding 
long term.


--- On Thu, 4/3/08, Stephen Moss <swmoss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Stephen Moss <swmoss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Biking and photography
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Thursday, April 3, 2008, 7:02 PM
> Mark,
> 
> You should probably use closed cell foam so that the foam
> padding will
> not hold/retain water/moisture.   Closed cell foam is
> available for
> some outdoor sleeping pads (thin) or in block form which I
> know from
> shaping pads for kayak, available at kayak store
> (expensive). Someone
> else might know a better source?  I carry a smaller plastic
> cooler
> with single swing handle lined with sleeping mat closed
> cell foam.
> Light, strong and mostly waterproof (yet untested in heavy
> rain).
> 
> Stephen
> 
> On Thu, Apr 3, 2008 at 6:52 PM, Mark Blackwell
> <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Well I thought Id pass on an update on my bid to
> safely carry camera gear on my bike.
> >
> >  After exhausting many other options, there really was
> only one practical one.  Build it yourself.  I would have
> liked to have found someone that would have welded me a box
> out of aluminum, but the cost was just too high to be
> feasible.  Nothing I could find would work, though I did
> find a few things which might work for other uses.  Stopped
> in an army surplus store and one of the best was an empty 50
> cal ammo can that is waterproof, solid outside and a good
> size.  Two big problems were it was just a bit too narrow
> for the camera bodies to ride like I wanted. They come in
> two sizes and might work very well for things like film in
> a handle bar basket, but not for the cameras.
> >
> >  I ended up using a piece of 3/4 ply for the top an
> bottom that I had left over. Sides were made of scrap 5
> quarter decking which I also had left over.  If I were to
> do it again and was buying, Id think hard about saving some
> weight and using half inch.  If I ever wreck though I might
> be glad for three quarter.
> >
> >  Well I started out building the size I wanted.  If
> you have a touring or comfort bike that can hard mount a
> rack that will hold 35lbs, you probably are in good shape. 
> I have a full suspension mountain bike though with a 20 lbs
> weight limit on the rack.  Once all the pieces were cut, I
> took them all to a bathroom scale and to no surprise, I was
> way too heavy.  The lumber itself was about 15 lbs.  I had
> to cut down the size until the weight was something I could
> live with.  The outside wound up being about 10 x 16 inches.
>  Inside without the padding that is to come is about 8 x 14
> inches and 5 inches roughly in depth.  Padding should add
> very little weight.  I have a foam insulation that will go
> around the sides.  I have a foam for cushions I might use,
> but may just use the insulation foam on the bottom too.  I
> plan to fill the gaps with bubble wrap. Total weight should
> be between 11 and 12 lbs so I should have about 8 pounds for
> gear.  Once its totally
> >   done if anyones is interested I will post a  final
> weight.
> >
> >  The hinges were just simply hinges that I again had
> laying around.  I bought a half moon latch.  Its the type
> that locks your windows, and from my choices it seemed the
> least likely to jar open on impact.  I may add another
> stronger hinge, but its ok for now.  I hinged the lid along
> the side with the seat.  That seemed the most logical, but
> it may not be the best.  Still its definitely something I
> can live with for a while to see.
> >
> >  I put eyelets in the sides and front an back should
> anything oversized and light need to be tied on to the so
> called trunk and will provide a place to tie a cover down
> in a rain storm.  The only place it will be able to leak is
> at the lid.  Everywhere else is caulked.
> >
> >  I mounted this mess using carriage screws through the
> bottom.  Underneath the rack there was another piece of wood
> which the screws went through.  Wing nuts pulled the trunk
> and that second piece of wood together on to the rack 
> Tightened down, it should stay put.
> >
> >  First ride was without anything in it.  It was on a
> smooth surface and it seemed secure.  Next test is going to
> be tomorrow with padding and some weight in it, but you can
> bet it won't be with my Canon L glass in it yet LOL.
> >
> >
> >
> >      
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
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