-=PCTechTalk=- Re: offtopic, remodeling project/home

  • From: "cristy" <poppy0206@xxxxxxx>
  • To: <pctechtalk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 09:27:47 -0400

5-7 days?  Wow, I did not think that long.  Is that due to letting things
dry inbetween?  That is not like all day on each of those days is it?

So if you are contiplating buying a new sink or toilet, is it better to do
that first and have those installed or does it matter?  I am going to have
to seriously look into the tile as I cant stand to see them like they are
and I am afraid a mold problem could happen with tiles falling/caving in
like that.  If that is due to moisture anyhow.  Will the guys who do the job
check for mold where the old tiles are messed up?  How do you guys go about
tearing out all that tile?  The tile on the floor is very small like you
described below and I have found it hard to clean.  Her bathrooms are
downstairs by the way, it is a one story house.

Was this a common practice about 36 years ago or he just did a NO NO?  Can I
be sure the next guy won't use the paper covered drywall, should I ask him
about that.  I am going to measure the bathroom this week and go check out
some tiles at some local places.

thanks


Christine
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gman" <gman.pctt@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pctechtalk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 1:32 AM
Subject: -=PCTechTalk=- Re: offtopic, remodeling project/home


> Cristy,
>    The sink only needs removal if it's of the pedestal variety.  If it's
> surrounded with a cabinet that will remain in place (or if you replace the
> existing one with a new one of any size before they begin), they will just
> tile up to it or the new one, cutting in the tiles as needed.  When
> finished, it should appear as though the tiles go right under the cabinet,
> but they won't.
>
>    The backing I'm talking about can be of several types, but they all
> provide water-proofing.  If I were doing the job, I would tear out all
> tiling and its backing that already exists down to the studs and then
> either
> nail up cement board (1/4 or 1/2 inch thick boards made from formed cement
> wrapped in a cheesecloth material for rigidity) or greenboard (drywall
> with
> a green water-resistant paper coating) to replace whatever was behind the
> tiles before.  I strongly suspect the previous installer only used regular
> paper covered drywall which is what led to the failure you're describing.
> That's a complete no-no as moisture will always find a way through grout
> and
> mortar.  My decision on which one to use will be based on how close to
> square and level your walls turn out to be once stripped down to studs.
> If
> I choose cement board, I can set my tile right to it with minimal prep
> work,
> but the boards themselves are really heavy and more difficult to carry up
> or
> down stairs, where most bathrooms are found.  If I were to go with
> greenboard, I would then install a water-proof material over it to
> completely prevent any moisture from ever reaching those boards (and you
> would never experience what you're now describing behind those tiles).  My
> preference for this water-proofing material is called Kerdi and is made by
> a
> company called Schluter Systems.  When I do a side job, I need to use the
> absolute best products that will ensure that the job does not fail within
> my
> lifetime (and I expect to live a long time).  This is one of the products
> I
> have come to adore.
>
> http://www.schluter.com/8_1_kerdi.aspx
>
>    For the floor, whatever is installed will also have to be brought up to
> the level of the existing material on the other side of the door.  For
> most
> homes, this means the hallway or bedroom carpet, which is normally about
> 1/2
> inch thick at the doorways.  Since floor tile is usually about 1/4 inch
> thick, I would either use 1/4 inch cement board (again, for its rigidity,
> but it would also serve to isolate the tile from your subfloor to allow
> for
> subfloor expansion/contraction) or another Schluter Systems product called
> Ditra that's made specifically for tile flooring.  Ditra is basically
> Kerdi
> with an added hard vinyl layer that allows it to serve at least 4 really
> important functions.  The one drawback of Ditra is that it is thinner than
> 1/4 inch, so it's not always the best choice for raising the height of a
> floor.  If your bathroom has a marble threshold, I would give Ditra very
> strong consideration since the tiles will not necessarily need to come all
> the way up to the height of the marble (assuming the threshold edges are
> beveled).  You can read more about Ditra below.  I love this stuff almost
> as
> much as the Kerdi.       lol
>
> http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
>
>    While the present tiles may be large on the walls and tiny on the
> floor,
> there's nothing that prevents you from making other choices.  If her
> individual floor tiles are only 1 or 2 square inches, then you're looking
> at
> tiles that were originally designed for shower stall floors instead of
> regular floor tiles.  Most of the bathroom floor tiling I do uses tiles
> that
> are anywhere from 6 to 12 square inches, with 12 being the norm, even in
> very small bathrooms.  They're much easier to keep clean than the tiny
> ones
> and require a lot less grout, which is of benefit to both installer and
> homeowner.  For walls, my norm has been installing 6 square inch tiles,
> though I often find myself installing tiles that are 4 X 4, 6 X 10 and 2 X
> 5
> (installed in a brick wall design).  I will also make suggestions for
> visual
> relief such as what you'll see in the following links.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6c355l
> http://www.hamptondesign.com/bath9.html
> http://www.tile-styles.com/photos_TubSurrounds_Pic3.html
> http://www.inspiredhomesolutions.com/kitchen_and_bath.html
>
>    As to giving you an estimate,  I would say the whole thing shouldn't
> take a 2 person crew longer than 5 - 7 days, assuming you do the
> deconstruction part.  I can't even begin to give you a cost estimate
> without
> knowing the dimensions of everything you need covered along with the size
> of
> the tiles to be used for each surface as well as any non-standard requests
> such as bordering & relief , laying tiles at a 90 degree angle to the
> walls,
> shelving, towel racks, etc..  what I can tell you is that prices are not
> just dependent on what is to be done.  They also fluctuate based on where
> you live.  A job performed in my section of the country (back woods) will
> be
> much cheaper than what they can charge in NYC where the cost of living is
> so
> much higher.  This may help explain why I am broke.      lol
>
>    Still, it's best that you get these estimates while you're out choosing
> sizes, shapes and colors anyway.
>
> Peace,
> G
>
> "The only dumb questions are the ones that are never asked"
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "cristy" <poppy0206@xxxxxxx>
> To: <pctechtalk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 12:06 AM
> Subject: -=PCTechTalk=- Re: offtopic, remodeling project/home
>
>
>>
>> Hmm, I hadn't considered the toilet and sink and all having to be removed
>> to
>> do the work.  The sink is an enclosure type cabinet under it, however;
>> she
>> really needs a new sink also so I guess I'd have to decide or she would
>> if
>> and when we get a new one, whether it will be cabinet like or pedestal.
>> What kind of backing are you referring to with the tile that surrounds
>> the
>> tub area? some kind of waterproof thing?  I am wondering what caused
>> these
>> tiles to just "cave in".   I went to grab for the one falling and could
>> not
>> get it and noticed there is space back there for it to fall.  I wondered
>> how
>> was it staying in place to begin with?  I can see others along the same
>> side
>> of the wall toward where the tub meets the tile that are starting to cave
>> in
>> too.
>>
>> I know you cannot tell me the exact cost but any estimates?  I would say
>> there are more tiles on the wall than the floor as it is a very small
>> floor.
>> The tiles are larger on the wall, small on the floor.  How long does a
>> job
>> like this typically take?  Lowes put down her laminate and it looks like
>> they did a really good job by the way.  Also I am off work as of last
>> Friday
>> for the summer so being at moms while they come to work is no problem. Is
>> the glue they use strong smelling?
>>
>> Wish you could do the work, I know I could trust you to do a good job and
>> I
>> love to cook ;0
>
>
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