At 8:46 AM -0600 1/15/05, Doug McDonald wrote: > >We want the "printing" latitude we enjoy today with film >>>negative, where we have enough information to bring out details in >>>the blacks >REALLY? > >I have never ever seen a movie with detail in the blacks. How sad... There are many classics that take full advantage f the ability to push blacks when there are details there that the cinematographer and director want you to see. Horror and murder flicks are a good example; the director MAY want you to see the perp creeping through the shadows to get the full dramatic impact. Then again, they may want you to be completely surprised, in which case they will tend to suppress the details in the blacks. What is important to this discussion is that they have the ability to do this in post. Likewise, you need lot's of headroom in the whites and specular highlights in order to deal with scenes with very high contrast. One of the biggest weaknesses of HDTV cameras is that they cannot handle scenes with extreme contrast. I have seen some excellent demos of this at conferences. The classic problem is shooting outdoors with talent/objects moving from shadows to full sunlight. I saw one example shot on a street in Hollywood, that has trees planted periodically along the sidewalks. The camera was being trucked along the sidewalk. moving from full sunlight to shade. In the shade you could see the details in the sidewalk, but in full sunlight, it was just "bloomin" white. You can imagine what happened to the talent walking in and out of the shade. With film, this kind of scene is not a major challenge. There is plenty of headroom to handle the specular highlights in the bright areas. In post you can make this scene look perfectly natural. With an electronic HD camera you are SOL, even with someone trying to shade the camera on the fly. Another example came from the DOP for Sony Picture's Joan of Arcadia, during the Sony press conference at NAB last year. The series is shot using the CineAlta camera. They has a series of shots at an outdoor location, and they could not get the look they wanted because of the high contrast outdoor conditions (more on this in a moment). So they flew a huge gauze screen over the set to cut down on the ambient light. Not only did this help with the high contrast scenes, but the shoot ran a bit late and they were able to bounce lights off of the screen to provide fill light as the ambient light faded. All of that being said, there is another consideration here. if Doug, or anyone for that matter, goes to the theater, they are likely to see something that is different than what they would see on a GOOD home theater system. The theater projection combined with the characteristics of the release print provide considerably more dynamic range than most HDTV displays, although the differences are narrowing with some of the new display technologies. Even more important, the ambient light levels in the theater are very low, allowing for the maximum dynamic range, with the ability to perceive details at both ends of the luma range. For home theater, you are starting from a severe deficit. First, the film has been transferred to an electronic medium that does not provide the dynamic range needed in the blacks and whites: the colorist can emphasize the most important areas of the image, but this involves compromising the rest fo the image. Second, most people adjust their displays for typical room lighting conditions, not for a darkened room. Thankfully, most of the new HD capable displays are providing multiple memories and presets for the display setting; but you still need to tweak each memory or preset to properly calibrate the display for both the ambient light conditions and the characteristics of the source material. Everyone should have a copy of Joe Kane's Video Essentials, so that they can learn how to properly calibrate their displays to maximize the perception of the full dynamic range. I have seen many displays that are set up in this manner. With the room darkened they look fantastic, however, as the ambient light level is increase they tend to look rather flat, with little contrast. This is why most consumers push the brightness and contrast, theyeby sacrificing much of the available dynamic range that the displays is capable of delivering. >Do you in fact, if you use a gray card or incident light >meter for setting film exposure, correctly rate the film speed >to get details in the blacks? That is, set the ASA rating >an absolute minimum of 2/3 stop slower than the manufacturers >ratings and more typically 1 or 1 1/3 stop slower? IF using >a spot meter, do you set the exposure so that the absolute >darkest part of the scene is well up on the toe? That is the decision of the DOP/Cinematographer, based on the look that the director is trying to achieve. I cannot imagine why you would set the blackest black well up on the toe - this would waste much of the dynamic range that the negative is capable of capturing. I was just looking at a paper on the Kodak Cineon scanner (10 bit). Here is where they set both the blacks and average whites: http://www.dotcsw.com/doc/cineon1.pdf For a normally-exposed Cineon Digital Negative, a 90% white card will be recorded at a code value of 685. The Dmin of the film is set to 95, representing the blackest black that can be recorded (approx. a 1% black card). In converting from 10-bits to 8-bits, the range of code values from 95 to 685 are mapped to an output range of 0 to 255. In between these end points, it is necessary to implement the gamma correction that is described herein. Thus the blackest black is set where the toe begins to rise, while the nominal whites are WELL below the top of the code range. The paper goes on to talk about how to capture some of the specular highlights when converting to the 8 bit range used for video distribution today. The biggest reason that we do not see much detail in the blacks or whites for video today is the limited 8 bit dynamic range. More justification for moving to 10 bits for emission encoding. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- You can UNSUBSCRIBE from the OpenDTV list in two ways: - Using the UNSUBSCRIBE command in your user configuration settings at FreeLists.org - By sending a message to: opendtv-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word unsubscribe in the subject line.