[modeleng] Re: modeleng Digest V4 #217
- From: Patrick Coppens-Marian Lynch <develop@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 16:40:44 +0200
Norman,
have you ever considered making your own paint?
It is not a very complex thing to do.
For a black, heat resistant paint, you could use the following receipt:
Make an outdoor whitewash using a know receipt (if you need one:tell me)
Add black pigment in the form of black iron oxide.
Apply
If you want an oil based paint, use some boiled linseed oil,add some
manganic peroxide (about 1/10) and color with the same black iron oxide.
If you can get your hands on a mixer,like the one the Domestic
Authorities use, for mixing soups, you will get a very homogeneous product
Patrick
Norman Clasper wrote:
> On 10 Oct 2007, at 07:25, FreeLists Mailing List Manager wrote:
>
>
>> From: <clif.gwr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Subject: [modeleng] Plasti-Kote Paint
>> Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 21:18:13 +0100
>>
>> Hi All,
>> From my recent experience never use this paint.
>>
>> I needed a small can of Black Gloss Paint for the running boards
>> of my latest 5" gauge loco but just lately such cans seem to have
>> all but disappeared.
>>
>> The only paint that I could find in small quantities was Plasti-
>> Kote which from the description on the jar seemed OK being
>> described as suitable for just about everything. The only
>> difference being that it needed Thinners for brush cleaning which
>> seemed to indicate that it was a type of Cellulose paint.
>>
>> The instructions also said the it dried without brush marks.
>>
>> On using the stuff the first problem is that it is fast drying and
>> does not give time for the brush marks to level out.
>> Having given the running boards two coats it looked as though they
>> had been painted with a Tar brush so I decided to sand them down
>> after letting the paint dry for one week.
>> On trying to sand them, the paint was so soft that it tended to
>> roll rather than sand down. Having got them as smooth as I could I
>> was going to wipe the surfaces over with a rag moistened with
>> White Spirit to remove dust, remembering that the paint was
>> thinners based. When the White Spirit touched the paint it promptly
>> softened and smeared making a real mess.
>>
>> I then decided to remove all the paint using Paint Stripper and
>> start again.
>> I gave it a good coating of stripper, left it for half an hour and
>> then tried to wash it off. Whilst some paint came off, it basically
>> turned to a sticky mess and still stuck to the metal.
>>
>> I then gave it another dose of stripper, left it for two hours and
>> when I tried to wash it off, it again left a sticky messy surface.
>> The question therefore is what is this stuff if Thinners and White
>> Spirit attack it and is semi immune to stripper.
>>
>> It looks like the only way that I am going to get this rotten stuff
>> off it to dump the running boards into a bucket of Thinners.
>>
>> Having hunted all over the place for small tins of real Black
>> Gloss paint, I eventually found one in a little DIY Shop called the
>> Jolly Bodger so when I do get the paint off, hopefully I can do a
>> decent job this time.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Clif
>>
>>
>>
>
> Hi All
> I had exactly the same problem with Plasti-Kote. Not only did it
> leave a mess - when I rubbed it down and resprayed from the same can,
> the new layer lifted at all the places where there was a feathered
> edge - if you want to make a 'crackle finish ', this is the way to do
> it!!
>
> I just painted on cellulose thinners which removed it in minutes. BTW
> - I bought cell thinners from a place which sells paints etc for car
> restoration. ( They make retail prices look very silly ). And do
> remember how flammable it is.
>
> I now use their products (carefully avoiding the two pack isocyanate
> paints) and find I get much better results, using a fairly large
> airbrush.
>
> Regards
> NormanC
>
>
>
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