[modeleng] Re: Steam engine RPM?
- From: "Pendragon" <idpriest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 22:45:22 +0100
Gents,
I agree also when usng propane its easy to get the whole boiler too hot
whereas with oxy acetylene the heat is very localised. I do use propane =
to
give some background heat to the boiler before using the acetylene ~~~~
about spit sizzling temperature is about right.
Regards IP
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of =
arriving
safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, Champagne in one hand - strawberries in the other,=20
body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming WOO HOO - What a
Ride!"=20
=20
"Never drive faster than your gaurdian angel can fly"
=20
Priest & Sons Model Engineers
http://www.kinvermes.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/p1.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx =
[mailto:modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Terry Lane
Sent: 10 September 2005 21:10
To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Steam engine RPM?
Having used both for a number of boilers, I wouldn't bother with propane =
for
anything over (say) a Gauge 1 boiler. Too much foolin' around on a large
job. With oxy/acet you can localise the heat much more effectively. =
Copper
ain't as easy to burn out as a lot of people think - especially if your
plates are thick enough to comply with AMBSC code, the main danger is =
the
tube ends.
> Whilst I concur with the majority of Phil's message, I will add a=20
> couple
of
> points.
>
> Propane is much easier to use than oxy acetylene, and the latter isnt=20
> easy to obtain in the UK, without complying with many rules. With=20
> propane,there is minimal risk of burning through plates etc, which
one
> can do with oxy.
>
> Easyflo, is the best general purpose silver solder and the most widely =
> available over here.
>
> Although steel is the best material for formers, one can use hardwood. =
> However, Blackgates and Reeves both offer kits with the end plates=20
> already flanged. The saving in time makes them worthwhile.
>
> Alan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phill Smith" <steam@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 5:10 AM
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: Steam engine RPM?
>
>
> Tony,
>
> I, personally, don't understand why you don't just make your own. They =
> are really easy to make. There is nothing hard about it at all.
>
> All you need is the following;
>
> - oxy-acetylene torch (use the cutting torch as the large quantity of
small
> flames is the best heat source)
> - Copper tube (for both barrel and end plates, flues, and Galloway=20
> tubes
if
> required)
> - Gun metal / Phosphor bronze for bushes
> - steel for endplate former
> - Silver solder (2 grades) -- 245 (45% silver) for bushes and
> lues/tubes: -- 115 (15% silver) for attaching your end plates.
> - Sulphuric acid (battery acid) for pickle bath. I add 1L of acid to=20
> 10L water, and find this OK if I get it on my hands (no burns)
> - 20L plastic bucket for pickle bath
> - Flux (for the 245 silversolder)
> - Hand tools
>
> That's about it........ Of the top of my head I can"t think of=20
> anything else.....
>
>
> MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to,=20
> modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the=20
> subject
line.
>
MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to,=20
modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the =
subject
line.
MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to,
modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.
Other related posts:
