[missbirdphotos] Re: An idea for helping each other learn about post-processing
- From: Larry Pace <larrypace64@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: "missbirdphotos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <missbirdphotos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 17:06:26 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks Judy. Just what I needed to hear. I am convinced.
Larry
________________________________
From: Judy Howle <howle
@cableone.net>
To: missbirdphotos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 3:59 PM
Subject: [missbirdphotos] Re: An idea for helping each other learn about
post-processing
It all depends on how high your expectations are and how good they look just
using those apps. I don’t have a Mac so I’ve never seen Aperture or iPhoto,
which I’ve heard is a very basic editor for adjusting “snapshots”. I used
Canon’s DPP for 2 wks when I got a new SLR before Adobe released a new ACR
version to cover the camera and I despised it. Almost everyone in the Canon
Yahoo groups I belong to and other forums agree that it has an awful interface
and is very slow to use. If you have as little patience as I do and shoot a lot
you will pull your hair out using DPP, LOL. Even if it might do a slightly
better job with noise on Canon cameras, the extra time spent is not worth it to
most people.
How much you are willing to invest in software? Most people who put out the
$$$ for an SLR should be willing to at least buy Elements @ $79 I would think.
I always do further tweaking on mine in Photoshop CS5 than what came out of
Lightroom. I think the different colored backgrounds of the two apps have
something to do with my tonal adjustments as the Ps desktop is medium gray and
it’s dark charcoal in Lr, so I often find that I have toned down the image
brightness too much when I run it through Levels and can easily bring it up
then. Plus I have the Nik and Topaz plugins that could be used from Lightroom
but I always do it from Photoshop and my noise reduction plugins are in Ps also.
Also, there are many times that you might need to do selective adjustments,
ideally on layers, to part of an image, such as dodging/burning, Levels,
hue/sat or to remove any objects that detract from the image with the clone
stamp tool or the Spot healing brush that can easily be done in Elements. I
remove objects all the time from my nature photos such as part of a nearby
bird, a beer bottle or milk jug in the water at the lake, and logs in my sunset
photos at the lock and dam, branches across a bird’s body, and a large pile of
killdeer poop that happened just as I snapped the picture <grin>.
Judy Howle
Southern Exposures
http://southernexposure.zenfolio.com
Digital Photography Class; Resources for Photographers
http://digitalphotographyclass.net
From:missbirdphotos-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:missbirdphotos-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Larry Pace
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 1:37 PM
To: missbirdphotos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [missbirdphotos] Re: An idea for helping each other learn about
post-processing
The concept is great and I am sure I could benefit more than most from step by
step instruction on post processing. But before I invest time, money and an
almost sure to come inordinate amount of emotional energy (frustration) ; I
would like to pose one question. If I work very hard to get the best capture
possible from the camera--exposure, focus, white balance, etc.--will it be
necessary to post process using programs other than --let's say my Mac I-Photo
or aperture or the Canon program?
What's that you say? Lazy! Maybe.
Larry
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