Hi Aram, Cool suggestion on that Nikon Eye Piece. I'll check it out. I wanted to pass along a 'theory' about something you said in your post. re: "I could not use my manual focus lenses on my Rebel with out it. Even with the focus confirmation adapter. I am not always able to get those focus spots to light up. Perhaps too dark." Quite Likely your observation is 'right on' about things being too dark for your Rebel to achieve focus comfirmation. The Rebel series don't have the 'latest/greatest' AF systems in them - they aren't uber efficient in general, are lacking in low light sensitivity, and as the apertures get smaller or the light gets dim their weaknesses pop up like a jack-in-the-box shouting Hi-Hello-Look At Me! (Pardon the humourous anthropomorphication!). I have 'less' of an issue using a 20D, but it's systems are dated, too when compared to a 40/50D and roundly whooped by the 1D wonder machines. (I pray each day for the camera faeries to slip any 1D under this peasants tattered pillow!). My 'theory' in regard to your post is to ask whether you're attempting to focus confirm with your rebel's sensor when you've already 'stopped' the lens down? At even f4 but especially down past f5.6 the Rebel sensors are into territory where they weren't 'engineered' to work well in. They certainly 'can' achieve results and depending on the volume of light in your scene coming in the lens and the subject you're attempting to focus upon they're able perform surprisingly well. I work around the issue by using the 'Pre-AF' techniques of Focusing Then Stopping Down, Pre-Focusing for a specific spot I 'want' the action to be framed at, and manipulating Depth of Field when possible to cover up focusing errors. Trust Me! those beautifully engraved Distance Markings and Depth of Field Scales on the 'old' manual focus lenses are Uber Handy! and can really save a photographer's bacon in tough situations. Also! you might want to experiment with your rebel's af system and get a feel for what it does and doesn't like to focus on 'in general' and experiment at what light levels the AF system starts geting flaky on you. I did it just by spending time playing with my camera regularly in my home in the evening. The lower light levels get tricky and homes have lots of low contrast stuff to challenge af sensors. By getting a feel for what my camera likes and doesn't like doing, I can take that experience with me out into the field. Richard ________________________________ Life is hard...but I just take it one photograph at a time. ~•~ "You miss 100% of the shots you never take" Wayne Gretzky ~•~ In a world without walls and fences, who needs Windows or Gates? ~•~ It's okay to be stupid. Just don't be gung-ho about it. ________________________________ ________________________________ From: Aram Langhans <leica_r8@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Saturday, August 1, 2009 9:37:49 AM Subject: [LRflex] Re: Summicron 50mm take apart? The other option that I use, and maybe a few others on the list, is the Nikon DK-21M viewfinder magnifier. It fits on the Canon and allows a small, yet significant degree of magnification that really aids in focusing. http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-DK-21M-Magnifying-Eyepiece-Digital/dp/B000C0OF54/ref=pd_cp_p_2 I could not use my manual focus lenses on my Rebel with out it. Even with the focus confirmation adapter. I am not always able to get those focus spots to light up. Perhaps too dark. Aram From: Richard Ward Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 10:54 PM To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [LRflex] Re: Summicron 50mm take apart? Hello Steve, I saw where you posted "I put the money towards a XSi body and am looking forward to using the Live View to help with focusing." As someone who cut his teeth in photography with fully manual Minolta SRT's, progressed through their X370 to X700's, and transitioned to the uber techy EOS Film and then Digital SLR's, I want to pass along an option you might want to consider for your Rebel re: Focusing your Summicron. That "live view" technology is about as geeky cool as can be, but using it to chase your kids in changing light and distances isn't very handy at all. (The word impossible comes to mind!) I suggest you research getting an aftermarket Focusing Screen for you Camera to replace the Rapid Return Mirror in your Rebel. Canon has interchangeable screens as an option in the more expensive models, but the rebels and xxD's aren't included in the fun unless you buy aftermarket. I haven't replaced my screen yet, good lenses are a higher priority at the moment! But I DEFINITELY want to. I carefully researched this topic and there are a couple of sources you should be able to google up fairly easily. One's called Katz, there's the very expensive beatty screens, and 1 or 2 other's out there. I use a 'focusing' M42 adapter with my old Zeiss, but it's invariably inaccurate when dof gets shallow and when the working distance starts to narrow up. That sports photo I posted before was prefocused to keep the entire batter in the depth of field, but on the little 20D LCD I didn't catch that it landed a bit to in front of him. It doesn't ruin the shot, but instead of relying on adhoc adaptations of chips and sensors, I could have quickly and easily used 50 year old technology to land my dof properly. Sincerely Richard W. ________________________________ Life is hard...but I just take it one photograph at a time. ~•~ "You miss 100% of the shots you never take" Wayne Gretzky ~•~ In a world without walls and fences, who needs Windows or Gates? ~•~ It's okay to be stupid. Just don't be gung-ho about it. ________________________________ ________________________________ From: Steve Lang <stevelang@xxxxxxxxx> To: LeicaReflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 1:47:40 AM Subject: [LRflex] Re: Summicron 50mm take apart? I am currently getting the digest email, so will send all replies in a single message- To Doug and Aram, Thanks for the advice, you are completely correct. Later that night I shot some test shots on a tripod, and got striking results compared to my other lenses. I always knew that minor lens flaws should not impact image quality, but this lens is great even with quite a few marks! I am very happy to have acquired it, I would've paid much more for a 'minty' copy anyway. Instead, I put the money towards a XSi body and am looking forward to using the Live View to help with focusing. BTW Doug- it was your Leicaflex article at photo.net that inspired me to go looking for one! To Richard, Thanks for the tip. I was actually shooting at ISO 800, my impressions of the Canon ISO range are the same as yours. ISO 800 is very usable even with a bit of cropping (and I've never done too much post noise-removal work either.) I always find myself pushing the limits with my Canon 50mm at 1.8 and ISO 800, with DSLR's I am always willing to give it a go. I'd rather have a semi-blurry shot at the 'magic hour' than anything under the harsh early noon sun. That's one wonderful thing about digital- with multi-GB cards the norm, you aren't afraid to shoot a string of shots to try to make sure you get a good one if conditions are challenging (as is usually the case with my kids.) Cheers all, Steve