[LRflex] Re: Instruction Manuals
- From: David Young <telyt@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 07:54:14 -0700
At 03/05/2006, you wrote:
>David'
>
>Wow, I am impressed! 114 Pages of the DMR manual alone.
>I see by reading it that I will need a hefty upgrade to my computer
>in order to use it. I dinna realise that. I wonder if I am biting off
>more than I can digest?
>
>Jerry
Jerry:
You don't need a *lot* of computing power to use any digital
camera... the difference is that older, slower machines with less
memory take longer... but they still do the job.
As for cost....
If you shoot in .jpg mode, you'll get lots of shots to the card and
you'll have no trouble processing them.
If you shoot in RAW mode (it's better), there are three programs
which will help, all available without cost.
First, I view my RAW files with FastStone Image Viewer (from
http://www.faststone.org/) . It understands virtually every RAW
format going (including .dng) and is both quick and versatile. I
use it to sort out which files I will discard (at 19mb each, you have
to be ruthless about discarding the poor shots).
Silkypix is the program I recommend to 'develop' your RAW files. It
does a marvellous job (I had it recommended to me as being the best
out there - better even than PS-CS2) and all the basic features work
forever, for free. If you want the fancy features (horizon control,
Chromatic Aberration control, distortion control, etc.) you have to
give them money. But the 16,000 Yen cost (about US$ 141) is far lower
than that of PhotoShop! (Available for both MAC and PC from
http://www.isl.co.jp/SILKYPIX/english/)
I resize and 'tweak' in PS-7, using Focus Magic (download from
http://www.focusmagic.com/) The trial version works perfectly,
and forever. It allows you to fix both motion and OOF
blur. However, the trial version will only save in .jpg mode. If
you wish to save as a .tif, for, say, further editing, you have to
buy the program. Stand Alone or PS compatible plug in. About
$35. (PC and MAC versions available.)
If you don't have PS (and don't want to pay for it), there are any
number of inexpensive or free "paint" programs, which will allow you
to tweak the final photo. For resizing, FastStone's Image Resizer
(http://www.faststone.org/) works very well, and is, again, free, but PC only.
Of course, Photoshop Elements (PC & MAC) comes with the DM-R, so
basic 'tweaking' is looked after, right there!
So, even buying your software, you can get a complete package that
does everything you need for <US$200, but you don't *really* need to
pay anything at all - at least, not at the start!
---
As for your Used R8 vs. R9 debate... The early R8's needed their
bottom contacts changed to work properly with the Motor Winder, Motor
drive or DMR. Otherwise it is compatible from the start. Leica has
had a policy of updating the innards of early R8's (to cure static
and other problems not associated with the DMR or motor drives),
without charge, whenever one comes in for service, for any
reason. This is the major reason to send any R8 to Leica NJ,
Kindermann in Canada, or your Leica agent, wherever you are! If you
sent it to DAG, (or whoever) you might get the contacts changed, but
neither he nor any other independent can do the electronics upgrade.
(I as "lucky". When my early, German produced, R8 was less than 48
hours old, the third-party strap I had on it failed, and my R8 hit
the concrete from shoulder height. It was repaired under Passport
Warranty, and the innards were upgraded at that time. As a result,
my R8 worked with the Motor Winder, and now the DMR, without a hitch.)
Take note, however, that *all* Portuguese made R8's have the improved
contacts and electronic innards in them from the start. These
problems **only** affect early production German units. So, when
buying used, simply asking the seller what it says on the "made in"
label, will answer many questions for you. BTW. ;later German R8's
were also OK. More on the early R8's can be found at
http://www.nemeng.com/leica/005c.shtml.
The differences, in actual use, are few. The R9 is, of course,
100g (~3.5 ounces) lighter, and if you turn off the R9, it turns off
the DMR, as well. When you turn off the R8, the DMR remains on until
it's auto-shut off timer (max. 5 minutes) tells it to turn
off. Alternatively, you can press and old the OK/OFF button on the
back for a few seconds & the DMR shuts off right away. I do this, to
save battery power, and don't find it inconvenient once you get into
the habit.
Other than these two things, there is little to choose between an R8 & the R9.
I hope this helps.
---
David Young,
Logan Lake, CANADA
Personal Web-site at: http://www3.telus.net/~telyt
Limited Edition Prints at: http://www3.telus.net/~telyt/prints.htm
Leica Reflex Forum web-page: http://www3.telus.net/~telyt/lrflex.htm
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