[LRflex] Re: Do You Rodeo? (For Richard in Mi.)

  • From: "David Young" <dsy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: "Richard Ward" <leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:21:48 -0700

In a message dated 31/05/2011, Richard Ward said to Dr. Ted (in part)...

> But those points aren't proof of anything, not unless I contrast it with
> somethings David Young wrote. A) The image he shared was shot at 1/100th of
> a second with an aperture setting of f19. B) He had his Camera set on full
> continuous predictive autofocus. To make an assumption, I feel pretty
> confident that at f19 whichever lens he was using had a pretty substantive
> Depth of Field available for him to use where the Horse & Rider would be in
> focus. Further, absent a Wunderbar AF System, I suspect the camera
> attempting to keep a lock on the Subject was only serving to add the
> potential for it to be hunting focus or missing focus thereby making it
> possible for the Depth of Field at f19 to not be effectively placed. 


If I may butt in, Richard...

a) The image I shared was ISO 100, but shot at 1/40th second.

b) It was f18, no 19, but that doesn't matter. Yes, the DOF, whether with a
manual focus lens (pre-focused) or with an AF lens in Continuous focus
mode, is the key.  Because any rider, runner or cyclist may zip by you at a
varying distance, even if it's only by the width of a running lane, will
vary. 

c) the differences between Ted's original, tested and approved system, and
my updating it with AF, is largely irrelevant.  I've chosen to use AF-C
mode because moto-cross bikes and rodeo Barrel-Racers have "running lanes"
wider than DOF can cover, even at f22. It simply improves one's chances.

d) The skill is not in running the camera... just about any dolt can set a
camera to manual, if he takes the time to read the book.  The skill is in
matching the speed of rotation of your body to that of your subject, while
keeping the motion smooth, and in keeping the camera level, as you do so.

There is a tendency among many if not most photogs to drop the camera
either to the left or right, which results in images with tilting horizons.
With "swishies", this causes the blurred backgrounds to take on the most
peculiar lines! 

If the motion of your camera/body is not smooth, the "hiccups" show up as
variations in what should be a smooth, if blurred background.

Now in my mid '60's, I don't swivel as smoothly as I did when I was in my
twenties.   And therein lies the challenge. The rest, as Ted says, is drop
dead simple!

Try it!  For me, the failure rate is high, but the satisfaction of getting
it right is great!

Cheers!
David.

-- 
David Young - Photographer
Logan Lake, CANADA

Wildlife: www.furnfeather.net
Personal: www.main.furnfeather.net
A micro-lender through www.Kiva.org.



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