[drivingpairs] Re: Neck Yokes-Long
- From: Robyn Cuffey <robyn@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: drivingpairs@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 08:19:43 -0500
My Eagle has a steel pole that pins to the carriage but hangs on a
spring to adjust the height. It has a crab (SP?) end that pulls the neck
straps sideways from the collars. I was told this is a drop pole because
it can be released on to the ground. I have always been concerned about
it pulling the horses sideways. Whenever I go to clinics or talk to more
experienced pair drivers they tell me to keep my pole straps VERY short
but that pulls more sideways. How do you prevent the horses from going
crooked or prevent rubs on their shoulders. I am hoping to do
competitive driving this summer and am already concerned about rubs. The
spring does allow the pole to bounce
and I would think that could sore up the top of their necks. It actually
bounces more when they walk.
My first down the road pair experience was with an old wooden drop pole
with a yoke. (only my second time driving pair) 50 yards from my
driveway one horse started to turn, the yoke "ring" broke (it was old
and the safety strap was torn) and down it went. All would have been
well if I had pulled back on both reins but I thought I should stop the
turning horse by pulling the rein on that side and I managed to pull the
off horse so sideways he fell over the pole in a heap in the road. Not
good. Since then I have avoided any leather attachment setup.
Robyn
On Sunday, February 2, 2003, at 01:03 PM, kathy robertson wrote:
>
> I am going to say no to converting your present pole.
>
> There are three general classes of neck yoke poles.
> Each works on the same principles, a yoke between
> horses, but poles are NOT interchangable between the
> styles of yokes.
>
> The first is the marathon pole for marathon vehicles.
> Usually spring loaded to carry itself on the front of
> vehicle. No weight on horses necks. Short pole made
> of metal tubing, so yoke ends at horses chest.
> Nothing sticking beyond the pole. Fits MODERN
> vehicles, usually mostly metal ones.
>
> Second is the drop pole used on buggies. Very light,
> and pretty long. This is the one used with light
> weight, American vehicles, buggy types, surreys. Name
> comes from being able to drop to the ground when not
> harnessed. Yoke must hold pole up when driving. Pole
> fastened to vehicle front with bolt, clip pins, which
> allow an up and down motion for horse movement and
> gentle hills in a road. Yoke leather tab slides over
> the end of pole. Pole end has a cap with a raised
> collar about 10" back to prevent yoke from running up
> the pole. Pole should have a safety strap to fasten
> around yoke. Strap is to prevent yoke from falling
> off the end, by accident. Yoke should stay on until
> safety strap is unfastened! Pole is longer than a
> marathon pole would be, plus extra length beyond the
> yoke. This allows horses to be hitched comfortably,
> not tightly but not very loose either. Traces should
> be tight before pushing yoke. Bigger horses would
> need longer pole to not kick vehicle when trotting
> fast. Yoke attachment plus straps to collar, will
> allow more slack/play, than marathon yoke clips. I
> would recommend using neck collars, not breast collars
> for this kind of yoke. The horses will have to
> support the pole weight the whole time they are
> hitched. A neck collar is wider to spread load on a
> bigger neck area. Evener with singletrees is how
> traces attach at vehicle.
>
> Third type of neck yoke is the draft horse hitch,
> usually seen on big wagons. That neck yoke is large,
> thick with a big metal ring to fit over the heavy
> dropped pole used on wagons. Pole end sticks out of
> neck yoke ring a fair length, to prevent yoke coming
> off by accident. There is a stopper on the bottom of
> pole to prevent yoke running up the pole. Extra
> length of pole gives horses control of vehicle as well
> as preventing accidental yoke coming off. Draft horse
> style hitching is usually pretty loose, since they
> have a long time in harness. Don't want to sore the
> horse, but does give more room before horses and yoke
> get in draft. Extra pole length beyond yoke stopper
> is REALLY needed. Also may be used to put more horses
> out front, like a four or six, so additional divider
> pole and eveners would be hung off the pole's end on
> wagon. Again, neck collars are recommended. Wagon
> poles are VERY heavy. Pole weight is on horse necks
> the whole time horses are hitched.
>
> Both the dropped pole and wagon poles must have extra
> pole length beyond yoke or safety strap to prevent
> yoke from coming off. Too long of traces allow horses
> out too far. They can push yoke off the end of pole.
> Removing the yoke will allow the pole to DROP
> instantly. It WILL spear into the ground, stopping
> vehicle, usually creating a bad accident, since horse
> have NOT stopped. Pole might slide on pavement. I
> don't want to picture it!
>
> Fixed polesstick out the front of vehicle, no give,
> hold themselves up in front of vehicle, use pole heads
> with rings for straps or chains. These do not change
> into any other kind of pole. Vehicle must first be
> suitable for a yoke style pole. Fixed poles are
> HEAVY, THICK, because horses use the long pole to
> control the vehicle (usually heavier than a buggy) for
> turns, stopping. Fixed pole should stick out past
> horses heads to lessen the angle of pull sideways.
> Long pole makes strap to chest almost staight ahead.
> Horses stopping, are almost straight back, in their
> push against the breeching and pole straps of chest
> connection. Martingales ARE recommended. There is a
> mathmatical formula for length of fixed pole and horse
> size, to get the best use of animals. A size table is
> posted at the ADS site.
>
> Perhaps you can post some pictures. We are better
> able to advise, when we see what you are working with.
> However if vehicle has got a fixed pole, it probably
> won't change well. Body designed to work a certain
> way. Many vehicles available with other pole
> attachments, that might suit you better, if you wish
> to change. Perhaps someone local can let you see a
> drop pole, modern or marathon vehicle in action. Each
> style has good and bad. You may dislike them after
> seeing them in use!
>
> Kathy Robertson
>
>> Those of you who use a yoke on your pole - that
>> seems like a good idea. My pole
>> now has the loops right on the end. I looked in the
>> Witmer catalog and saw 3
>> yokes. They all seem to have a little leather tab
>> with a hole in it as the
>> center element. Can I just take the crab off my
>> (wooden)pole and attach the
>> yoke? What kind of hardware do you need to attach
>> the leather tab to the pole?
>> Neither my husband nor I are all that experienced
>> with driving a pair, but he
>> is an engineer and _very_ good at making stuff. I
>> did get a very good reminder
>> to have some safety backup keeping the yoke on the
>> pole - that certainly seems
>> like a good idea.
>> Stephanie
>> Blasted Rock Farm
>> Naples, NY
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 22:44:24 -0500
>> From: dogsnponies@xxxxxx
>> Subject: [drivingpairs] Re: Marathon yoke
>>
>>
>> My old boyfriend made me one using a spare
>> swingletree from the carraige. Took a little
>> ingenuity and a few trips to the hardware/auto parts
>> store. They don't come cheap from the manufacturers
>> and unless you are ordering it on the pole to begin
>> with- even worse. I have a very clever metal
>> fabricator here in NJ that helps me with a lot of
>> modifications.
>> Tracey
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of drivingpairs Digest V2 #27
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