[blind-chess] Re: Chess Article #27 Basic Principles Rule 10 pawn chains
- From: Knightrider <adatewithmate@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <blind-chess@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 19:23:35 -0400
Rod,
Thanks a bunch for this information. It's good to read over and over again
Question! Regarding pawn chains for anyone out there in E land. Is it better
to create them on your K side, Q side or more on your opponents K side or Q
side? Also, when should they be facing inward or outward? Let me put this
another way, should they go from the south to the northeast, south to the
northwest or inverted in the other direction. Thank you to anyone who can
explain
when to use different awn chains in different directions. Thank you,
Knightrider
-----Original Message-----
From: Roderick Macdonald <rmacd@xxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 3:56 PM
To: blind-chess@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [blind-chess] Re: Chess Article #27 Basic Principles
Good morning!
Good question!
I think the primary reason the f2 (and f7) square is considered weak at
the outset is that it holds the only pawn at the beginning of the game
that cannot be immediately defended by a piece other than the king. Each
of the other seven pawns is immediately defendable by a rook, bishop or
the queen. (The two central pawns are also defendable by knights.) The
situation does not get much better after one move either - the only way in
which f2 (or f7) can be defended by a piece after one initial mvoe is 1.
Nh3, a very poor move since it moves away from control of the center.
Additionally, there are only two second moves for black which could
potentially put white in check, and one of these involves access via f2.
For example, black can put white in check via 1. d4 e6 2. e4 Bb4+; or via
1. f4 d5 2. e4 Qh4+.
So, in a nutshell, the f2 square is weak because it is the hardest to
defend initially and it is one of the first that can permit an attack on
the king.
Rod
On Sun,
23 May 2010, Knightrider wrote:
> Hi Rod,
> Thank you for these articles.
> They''re helpful and interesting. Can someone tell me why what follows is
> the beginning of the game.
> Also, why are they weak spots?
>
> "9. The f2 square (or f7 for Black) is, in the beginning of the game, a weak
> spot. Pay attention to it."
> Thanks
> Knightrider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roderick Macdonald <rmacd@xxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 1:36 AM
> To: Blind Chess Mailing List <blind-chess@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [blind-chess] Chess Article #27 Basic Principles
>
> Chess Article #27
> Chess: basic principles
> (Author unknown)
> From: http://sites.dehumanizer.com/chess/
>
> Introduction
>
> There are many books on chess out there. I, myself, have read some.
> It seems to me, however, that there's a big gap in the available
> literature, since almost all chess books seem to belong to one of
> the following:
> 1. books for beginners: they teach you the rules of chess, how to
> move the pieces, then demonstrate a couple of simple
> checkmates, and that's it. They're intended for people who
> have never played chess, and are curious about it.
> 2. more advanced books: openings theory, one or more openings
> studied in detail, analysis of classic games between
> grandmasters, studies of game endings, and so on. They're
> meant for people who know the game very well, have been
> playing for a while, and take it seriously, possibly even
> competing in amateur tournaments.
>
> What is missing here? In my opinion, something for intermediate
> players (or, more correctly, "advanced beginners", but let's be
> nice. :) ). Those who have no doubts about chess rules, who no
> longer leave pieces unprotected, or lose them because they were
> distracted ("where did that bishop come from?!?"), and who usually
> have no trouble winning a game when they have some material
> advantage.
>
> So, what's next? What should they do to improve? Study dozens of
> openings and variants? Analyze games by grandmasters? Eventually,
> yes. But, for now, it's too soon!
>
> The next step, instead, should be to learn a few principles, which,
> though simple, quickly change your way of playing the game,
> because, even though you may not be aware that you're playing
> opening X variant Y, you know that moving this piece there is a
> good idea, because...
>
> Principles
>
> 1. The beginning of the game (a.k.a. opening) should be viewed as
> a "race" with two goals:
> + to control as much of the board as possible
> + to develop most of the attacking pieces
> 2. Avoid moving the same piece twice during the opening. Remember
> the "race" - try to save moves.
> 3. Unless you really know what you're doing, and why, you should
> open the game, usually, with one of the center pawns (king's
> or queen's), moving forward 2 squares (that is, to d4 or e4).
> If you're playing Black and White has just opened with one of
> those moves, you should answer with the equivalent one (d5 or
> e5).
> 4. Knights belong in the board's center. Move them there as soon
> as possible.
> 5. Trying to attack with the queen early in the game is usually
> not a good idea. Your opponent will be able to attack her with
> less valuable, protected pieces, which will force you to move
> your queen again and again, preventing you from developing the
> rest of your pieces, while he will be developing his.
> 6. After you have developed your bishops and knights, you should
> probably castle. Castling helps protect your king and develop
> a rook. For the same reason, avoid moving the king before
> castling, as you can't castle if he has already moved.
> 7. Avoid having two or more pawns in the same column (which is
> very common if you capture a piece with a pawn). If capturing
> with a pawn (and with impunity) is the only way, by all means
> do so, but if you have several ways to do it, choose one that
> won't leave one pawn in front of another.
> 8. If a column has no pieces at all (either yours or the
> opponent's), try to put a rook there.
> 9. The f2 square (or f7 for Black) is, in the beginning of the
> game, a weak spot. Pay attention to it.
> 10. Often, pawn chains are formed, where pawns protect one
> another, forming diagonals. That can make it difficult for you
> to "penetrate" your opponent's territory. The trick, usually,
> is to find an unprotected pawn, at the back of the chain -
> capturing it (probably with a knight) may be a good idea.
> 11. Don't choose moves expecting your opponent to play badly, as
> in "let's see if he doesn't notice this". Always assume he
> will make the best possible move. If not, so much the
> better...
> ----------
> Copyright 2006 Dehumanizer.com
> All rights reserved
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