[blind-chess] Re: Chess Article #27 Basic Principles

  • From: Roderick Macdonald <rmacd@xxxxxxxx>
  • To: blind-chess@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 09:56:23 -1000 (HST)

Good morning!

Good question!

I think the primary reason the f2 (and f7) square is considered weak at the outset is that it holds the only pawn at the beginning of the game that cannot be immediately defended by a piece other than the king. Each of the other seven pawns is immediately defendable by a rook, bishop or the queen. (The two central pawns are also defendable by knights.) The situation does not get much better after one move either - the only way in which f2 (or f7) can be defended by a piece after one initial mvoe is 1. Nh3, a very poor move since it moves away from control of the center.

Additionally, there are only two second moves for black which could potentially put white in check, and one of these involves access via f2. For example, black can put white in check via 1. d4 e6 2. e4 Bb4+; or via 1. f4 d5 2. e4 Qh4+.

So, in a nutshell, the f2 square is weak because it is the hardest to defend initially and it is one of the first that can permit an attack on the king.

Rod

On Sun, 23 May 2010, Knightrider wrote:

Hi Rod,
Thank you for these articles.
They''re helpful and interesting.  Can someone tell me why what follows is the 
beginning of the game.
Also, why are they weak spots?

"9. The f2 square (or f7 for Black) is, in the beginning of the game, a weak spot. 
Pay attention to it."
Thanks
Knightrider

-----Original Message-----
From: Roderick Macdonald <rmacd@xxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 1:36 AM
To: Blind Chess Mailing List <blind-chess@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [blind-chess] Chess Article #27 Basic Principles

Chess Article #27
Chess: basic principles
(Author unknown)
From: http://sites.dehumanizer.com/chess/

Introduction

There are many books on chess out there. I, myself, have read some.
It seems to me, however, that there's a big gap in the available
literature, since almost all chess books seem to belong to one of
the following:
1.   books for beginners: they teach you the rules of chess, how to
     move the pieces, then demonstrate a couple of simple
     checkmates, and that's it. They're intended for people who
     have never played chess, and are curious about it.
2.   more advanced books: openings theory, one or more openings
     studied in detail, analysis of classic games between
     grandmasters, studies of game endings, and so on. They're
     meant for people who know the game very well, have been
     playing for a while, and take it seriously, possibly even
     competing in amateur tournaments.

What is missing here? In my opinion, something for intermediate
players (or, more correctly, "advanced beginners", but let's be
nice. :) ). Those who have no doubts about chess rules, who no
longer leave pieces unprotected, or lose them because they were
distracted ("where did that bishop come from?!?"), and who usually
have no trouble winning a game when they have some material
advantage.

So, what's next? What should they do to improve? Study dozens of
openings and variants? Analyze games by grandmasters? Eventually,
yes. But, for now, it's too soon!

The next step, instead, should be to learn a few principles, which,
though simple, quickly change your way of playing the game,
because, even though you may not be aware that you're playing
opening X variant Y, you know that moving this piece there is a
good idea, because...

Principles

1.   The beginning of the game (a.k.a. opening) should be viewed as
     a "race" with two goals:
     +    to control as much of the board as possible
     +    to develop most of the attacking pieces
2.   Avoid moving the same piece twice during the opening. Remember
     the "race" - try to save moves.
3.   Unless you really know what you're doing, and why, you should
     open the game, usually, with one of the center pawns (king's
     or queen's), moving forward 2 squares (that is, to d4 or e4).
     If you're playing Black and White has just opened with one of
     those moves, you should answer with the equivalent one (d5 or
     e5).
4.   Knights belong in the board's center. Move them there as soon
     as possible.
5.   Trying to attack with the queen early in the game is usually
     not a good idea. Your opponent will be able to attack her with
     less valuable, protected pieces, which will force you to move
     your queen again and again, preventing you from developing the
     rest of your pieces, while he will be developing his.
6.   After you have developed your bishops and knights, you should
     probably castle. Castling helps protect your king and develop
     a rook. For the same reason, avoid moving the king before
     castling, as you can't castle if he has already moved.
7.   Avoid having two or more pawns in the same column (which is
     very common if you capture a piece with a pawn). If capturing
     with a pawn (and with impunity) is the only way, by all means
     do so, but if you have several ways to do it, choose one that
     won't leave one pawn in front of another.
8.   If a column has no pieces at all (either yours or the
     opponent's), try to put a rook there.
9.   The f2 square (or f7 for Black) is, in the beginning of the
     game, a weak spot. Pay attention to it.
10.  Often, pawn chains are formed, where pawns protect one
     another, forming diagonals. That can make it difficult for you
     to "penetrate" your opponent's territory. The trick, usually,
     is to find an unprotected pawn, at the back of the chain -
     capturing it (probably with a knight) may be a good idea.
11.  Don't choose moves expecting your opponent to play badly, as
     in "let's see if he doesn't notice this". Always assume he
     will make the best possible move. If not, so much the
     better...
----------
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