I do have darks for M13. They didn’t help with DSS trying to stack the subs
though.
If I shorten the exposures down to the 30-60 second range, the background noise
does diminish a lot. But that’s when the f10 of the scope and the UHC’s opacity
drive down the signal level too. Often far enough that nothing but the
brightest stars are still captured.
I’ve seen various schemes for trying to cool a DSLR but none of them seem to
work well nor do they seem very practical to me.
Guess I might just have to bite the bullet and get myself a nice mono cooled
CMOS camera. Oh! Shucky darn! :-) Other than being a tight wad, that is. :-(
Nut before I take that leap, I need to play with PixInsight some more to see if
it can do a better job with my “images”.
Mike McDonald
mikemac@xxxxxxxxxxx
On Jul 8, 2018, at 11:06 AM, Greg Schwimer <schwim@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Mike,
As you said, you'll have an increase in noise due to the heat. Make sure you
grab dark & bias frames at about the same temperature as the light frames. I
started in the summer as well.
What camera do you have? How are you selecting your exposure time? Are you
capturing in RAW?
You may be better off with many, many short exposures rather than trying for
4 minute subs.
