Once in awhile Signature Plastics aka Pimp My Keyboad has Alps-compatible
sets that aren’t blank. I managed to snag a set of the “Granite” color way
when it was available (it is always for sale for MX stems).
I suggest getting on their newsletter list to find out if/when they offer
something similar again. I can also post here, though I don’t generally
like to post links to commercial things in discussion lists.
I have an addiction to fancy key caps, so I have long considered building a
new Atreus with MX-compatible switches (Zealios if you want to know) just
so I can swap key caps. Of course the problem then becomes the key caps
legends to match the intended key usage ...
From: Phil Hagelberg <phil@xxxxxxxxxx> <phil@xxxxxxxxxx>
Reply: atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> <atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: September 8, 2018 at 09:20:24
To: atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> <atreus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [atreus] Re: PCB orientation
pepijn de vos <pepijndevos@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
The Matias keycaps are much harder to assemble, and due to the one-sided
pins on them, you can actually bend the switch up. So there is no way to
remove the caps without breaking stuff I think. With Cherry I can fairly
easily pull off a cap. Not that ever do that...
Yeah, this is a bit unfortunate; they sit *really* tightly. But it would
be more annoying than it is if 3rd-party keycaps sets actually existed
for Alps mount.
If anyone does ever find another keycap set (scavenged off a thrift
store find or something?) and they want to replace the switches and the
caps together at once, let me know. For a project like that I can sell
you replacement switches. But the desoldering would take a while.
On particular question is about the orientation. I just did what the
said, and it all turned out fine, but it seems odd that all the components
are on the unmarked side. Why is that?
I noticed that on my clicky Atreus, I have to use the PCBDOWN compile
option for QMK, else my layout is mirrored. Am I a stubborn idiot who
can't follow instructions, or was the old PCB actually upside down?
Nope; the instructions actually changed. I used to recommend doing it
with the PCB reversed from the way it is now, but this method pins the
controller between the PCB and the plate. If there are any problems with
the solder joints on the controller, you have to desolder every switch
in order to fix it. So I changed the instructions and the firmware to
recommend orienting it such that the controller is accessible just by
taking off the bottom plate in order to make repairs easier.
But I can see how that would be confusing if you built one the old way.
(when using PCBDOWN, ALT and > CTRL are reversed)
Oops; thanks for catching this! I have an old PCBDOWN board somewhere
but I haven't updated it to QMK yet; the PCBDOWN support for QMK was
contributed by a customer and I hadn't gotten a chance to test it
yet. I'll see if I can publish a fix.