[amayausers] Re: slim line clamp
- From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2007 18:10:21 UT
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Debbie, the clamping systems are great-since we got ours I don't think I"ve
used the regular hoops for anything except backs and shirts/sweats that don't
have a button down neck. Just so much easier with the clamp. Think of it as a
flat hoop-not an 'inside and outside ring' that grip by one sliding inside the
other-but a pair of almost matching steel 'frames' that grip by a strong spring
clamp that holds them together with the material between them. No good for
large heavy objects-or jackets, or sweatshirts...there is no room 'behind' the
hinge for excess material to go. So there is a limited 'reach' for the clamps.
On tote bags, portfolios, the clamp only grabs the material you will be sewing
on and the rest has to hang down below and still allow room for the needle
plate/bobbin 'nose' to get in there. Most of the smaller totes I have still
can't be done on the pockets-because as soon as the design moves sideways the
'nose' pulls the material right off the hoop. Try stuffing
your hand into the pocket and make a fist-then see if there is any room left
to move sideways and you'll see what happens.
I have the 3.5 x 6.5 and 6.5 x 6.5 (or whatever it is-there are only two sizes
for the 'smaller' clamp). I've done some hat bags, and use the 3.5 for that.
Did 50 beanie hats in december-using the 6.5 clamp and a 'roll' of 4" tearaway
by feeding it through as we sewed-instead of cutting it into separate pieces
for each hat.
NO waste at all and it really speeded things up.
Dress shirts, the clamps are great, but jackets...not really-the thicker hem
and zipper can prevent the clamp from holding tight if you can't get them out
of the way.
If it does work for a portfolio/briefcase-you may want to slide a 'box' under
the 'nose' to hold the weight of the item up-it will really pull the clamp down
and that can cause needle binding and breaking.
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