[amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
- From: "Lee or Terri Hoover" <lhoover2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 14:00:58 -0500
Not a bad option! :)
Terri
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ed Orantes
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 12:39 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
You bet Terri,
Same goes for you if you ever plan to visit the south with room in your
vehicle to tote your Amaya. I know, this is not likely but I have had
customers ask if this was an option.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Lee or Terri Hoover
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:38 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
I have been replacing needles but I think it's too often for what I'm doing
(every 1000 stitches or less). (broadcloth, cutaway) A tech was out in early
May and did a top to bottom tuning (all except trimming), the rotary hook
was replaced since a screw broke on it while adjusting. Most of the time I
think it's operator error, however, I'm beginning to think surely I don't do
things wrong 100% of the time! I do wish I was in your area. I'm afraid
travel expenses would be way more than repair! I'm in the Kansas City area.
If you are ever in the area and feel like that challenge, please let me
know.
Terri Hoover
Embroidery Creations
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ed Orantes
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 9:33 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
Terri,
For what it's worth, rather than worry about a needle being with or without
burrs, just swap it with a new one. They're too cheap to worry about it.
Wise men say,... every eight hours of continuous use on one needle is about
the average recommended maximum lifetime of that needle. What that means is
if your machine only had one needle, and you sewed all day long
continuously, you would want to put a brand new needle in every morning.
Now does that mean that this is what everyone in the real world does???
No - Not really. I know some folks out there that don't change their
needles unless they break.
How about your favorite turkey carving knife. If you carved turkey for a
living, how often do you think you'd sharpen that sucker?
My point here is you can change your needles whenever you want to - every
day or every month or even only when they break. But the life of a needle
(the shaft, eye, or point specifically) is going to be dependant on what you
put it through such as speed, fabric, design densities, sew time, needle
size, needle type, needle coatings, point type, brand name and such. Unless
you really are interested in learning all this good stuff and plan to be the
best embroiderer in your area, then all you should be concerned with is
knowing how to change your needle with a new one and know to do it
periodically. That essentially presses the "reset button" and starts you
off on the right track once again, with respect to needles.
Now there are other issues closely related to the needles that might be out
of your control unless you are somewhat technical. Things such as Needle
Depth settings, Rotary Hook Settings and also Needle Centering. If any of
these settings are off you could be having problems as well and changing
your needles won't really help you out 100%.
I'm also thinking about your machine being 2.5 years old and if your take up
lever cam hasn't been kept up with lubrication, it's possible your take up
lever stroke is now shorter than it's supposed to be which can cause the
rotary hook to hit the thread because the take up lever is not "taking up
the thread" like it's supposed to.
You could also be in need for a new rotary hook. Melco says the average
life for an industrial rotary hook is about two years. Of course I know
many, many people who have gone much longer without having to change the one
they have. But you just never know. A compromised Hook Point can also give
you thread frays and/or thread breaks.
I love fixing these machines because they are rather complex in nature and I
always love a good challenge. Not to mention I have a real appreciation for
precision and embroidery machines demand precision - especially at higher
speeds.
Any chance you live in the vicinity of Tennessee or Virginia. I'll be
headed up that way next week. (and I live in Louisiana)
Along those lines, when was the last time you had a tech service your
machine? Have you been fortunate enough to have gone 2.5 years without the
need for service? If so, you should have quite a bit of money saved up by
now for that next service call. I suggest to all my customers to put away
$100 bucks a month per embroidery head for that "just in case" service call.
At the end on one year, you should have $1200 dollars to put towards a
service call. If after two years without a service call, either focus on
purchasing another machine or consider going on a cruise with the first
$1200. God, Buda, or Allah forbid you need a new needle case or main
circuit board. I understand those cost around $2,000 each.
Good luck,
Ed Orantes
504-258-6260
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Lee or Terri Hoover
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:18 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
Ed,
In answer to your question - getting too many fraying thread breaks thinking
it's a bur on the needle as the needle does not feel as "sharp" as a new
one. Can't tell with a magnifier if it actually has one. So it's more of
hunch. I think I need to get a microscope :) (I have progressive lenses
and close up stuff is not good) Any way to check for burs other than sight.
Needle plate seems to be free of burrs
Presser foot all the way down
Needle rotation correct
Needle pushed all the way up
Fabric taut
Thread frays - pretty much every needle
One broken needle in the life of the machine about a year ago
No caught garments
Take up lever cam lubricated in awhile but will try
No hoops hit
My amaya is 2.5 years old, but with very limited use. (z run time
286:07:42) I'm sewing on sample material - broadcloth with 2 oz cutaway
and/or 2 layers of 2 oz cutaway. In a perfect world, sewing on this type of
material, a design free of defects, using only 1 needle, how long (# of
stitches) should this needle last. Titanium vs. non?
Off to grease the take up lever.
Thanks for your help,
Terri
Embroidery Creations
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ed Orantes
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 12:04 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle bur ??
Hey Terri,
Traditionally, needle burs are generated in one of two ways: either the
needle is being deflected ( by something) and then rubbing against something
hard like the needle plate, presser foot, edge of hoop, and even things like
zippers on garments. ...Or something is hitting the needle in the process
of making a stitch - like the machine's very own rotary hook.
Chances of the first are slim however the latter is more likely. During a
normal stitch, the spacing between the needle and the spinning rotary hook
is only about the thickness of a single thread. If the needle is encouraged
to bend towards the rear of the machine or the hook position is set a little
too forward, then the rotary hook strikes the back of the needle and burrs
can happen.
Also know that a needle installed backwards is an excellent way to get burrs
on your needle. Because the scarf of the needle is now in the wrong place.
I'm assuming you are feeling burrs on your needles with your finger or can
see them with a magnifying glass????
If this is not the case, and you are guessing that burrs are your problem
causing fraying and thread breaks, then we might want to consider some other
issues.
Let's look at these possibilities a little closer:
- is your presser foot position all the way down?
- is your needle rotation correct.. the groove down the shaft of the needle
facing forward?
- is your needle pushed all the way up into the needle clamp before
tightening?
- is the fabric in the hoop taught and not loose?
- do you get these thread frays and breaks on every needle?
- have you broken any needles lately? if so how many?
- have you caught any garments, or other items, in the rotary hook recently?
- have you lubricated your take up lever cam on a regular basis? (How old
is your machine?)
- have you hit a hoop recently?
These are just a few questions I would ask myself if I were going to
troubleshoot your machine.
After that it's a process of elimination. Let me know how you would answer
these questions and I'll try to offer up some possibilities.
Your Friendly Neighborhood Melco Man;
Ed Orantes
504-258-6260
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Lee or Terri Hoover
Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2006 3:49 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Needle bur ??
I'm looking for some possible causes of needle burs? I believe I'm getting
needle burs, at least it feels that way. This happens with needles that
have less than 1000 stitches. A brand new out of the box titanium needle is
put in (feels ok), after sewing lettering on knit (bookman, .3 ", centerwalk
underlay, density 5 pt., stitch length 20 pt) using 2 oz. cutaway backing
and solvy topping, after about 500 stitches get fraying thread breaks, and
the needles feels like it was a bur. Tried using autoactifeed and it sews
at MT of 1. Use manual MT of 2-3. Any thoughts at what might be causing
this?
Terri
Embroidery Creations
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