[amayausers.com] Re: Melton Jacket back

  • From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 20:52:10 UT

This message was posted by signman on AmayaUsers.com. PLEASE DO NOT REPLY VIA 
EMAIL. Instead, respond to the thread on the WEBSITE by clicking here: 
http://www.amayausers.com/boards/ultimatebb.php?/topic/2/362.html#000001

If you mean the 'letterman' jacket (the only one I find in Sanmar catalog that 
says 'melton wool') then are you using the port pocket (hidden zipper) or 
sewing through the whole jacket back?
Here's some things to help...
1) use the zipper, get the hoop inside. One backing-1.5 oz. 
2) set up design to stitch around the whole image if possible to tie it down to 
the backing.
3) sew from 'center' of design OUT, if you have large filled areas, set them up 
to start from the 'middle' and go 'out' to the edge either side to side or 
middle to top, middle to bottom.
4) in the worst bulge areas, set up an extra 'underlayment' -a crisscross or 
diagonal pattern that is wide open-density of 50-60-to tie all the material 
down evenly in those areas.
Set your presser foot up so it just barely touches-don't let it 'crush' the 
material. The more it pushes down, the tighter your thread gets-the tighter the 
thread, the more the 'bulge'.
What's happening is excess material (insulation under it, if you don't use the 
port pocket) or the thick weave-is being pushed ahead of the presser foot as it 
sews and it has to go somewhere. Eventually it can't be pushed ahead anymore 
and bingo-there's your bulge. So figure out where it is and in that area-split 
the fill to go 'center-out' and/or add extra underlayment first to flatten it 
out. Won't take a few tests and you'll have it down.
If you don't know about the 'port pocket' in the Sanmar jackets-look for the 
hidden zipper, usually has a 'port' tag on it. That's made to open up the hem 
so you can slide your hoop, backing, etc. in there and also get the 'nose' 
snout of your amaya inside it-so NONE of the backing, bobbin, etc. shows on the 
inside of the jacket.

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