[amayausers] Re: Leather
- From: "Laughing Palm Inc." <sales@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:06:44 -0500
Having read the responses to the leather question, I'm curious as to what
others do...
I've found that using an extra narrow wedge-point leather needle has worked
out very well for me - at least for leather purses that a local shop keeps
sending us...in addition to an odd leather jacket now and then. The
blade-style leather needle allows slicing instead of punching like the
standard round needles, which allows the leather to close back up nicely. I
believe ours is Organ #DB-K5SS 75/11. It's my understanding, however, that
if you're stitching on synthetic leather or suedes, that a regular round
needle is preferred.
I agree that for leather, almost no underlay is necessary (I usually just
have a center run for loft on narrow columns), and low density is a must
(otherwise you'll "punch out" the design), along with slower stitching
speeds (so the needle doesn't heat up too much). I don't hoop leathers, I
just use Fast Frames (since I don't have a clamping system), and that seems
to work out fairly well.
If you're going to hoop leather, use some tearaway backing on the front and
back to reduce hoop burn while hooping, and once it's hooped, you then
remove the front backing from the design area before stitching.
What does everyone else use/do? Any other suggestions to make it easier to
do leathers? How does a clamping system affect the leather surface?
Regards,
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rod or Sharon
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 11:28 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Leather
Herb, Darlene,
If it is ultra suede, forget it, unless you open the seam on the lining and
iron on some special iron on backing, otherwise the ultra suede will
definitly tear around the edges.
Presser foot height is critical as you don't want to be leaving a "foot
print" in the leather from the bottom of the presser foot hammering away on
the leather.
Surprisingly, regular leather embroderies very well, the thicker the better.
Herb is right, the denser the design, the more chance you are going to
"punch out". Reduce densities, especially in the lettering and use a good
backing.........and, and,,,,,,,,
The only sure way to go about sewing on leather is to have a sample peice
for trial purposes and sew out the design on it, check it over around the
edges very closely, also in the centers of a's,b's ,e's g's etc, etc. I use
a magnifying glass to check leather with. Manual underlay--not auto, that is
kept away from the outside edge is the safest bet, so you are not doubling
up on the needle holes around the edges. Sew and verify and adjust
acordingly, its a pain, I know, but could save a $100.00 jacket and some
headaches.
Rod Springer
Rod & Sharon Springer
Embroidery Cottage
Melco EMT & Amaya Technician & Trainers
Design Shop Pro+ & Digitizing
Boise, ID 83713
208-938-3038
----- Original Message -----
From: "HK Acree" <hkacree@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:44 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Leather
> Darlene,
> Kind of facing the same dilemma. Have to do the motorcycle seat today. I
> know we need to address underlay but am not sure how much to decrease it.
> Also need to look at stitch lengths. If they are too short bad things are
> going to happen. Where is Ernie A. when we need him?
>
> Herb
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darlene Weber" <image_maker31@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Amaya" <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 7:34 AM
> Subject: [amayausers] Leather
>
>
>>I have to embroider a word on the leather sleeve of a Letter Jacket.
>> Does anyone have any advice or procedures they can share with me???
>> I really don't want to mess up a $100+ jacket!!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Darlene
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