[amayausers] CAPS
- From: "HK Acree" <hkacree@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 08:32:14 -0700
Caps are 70 + % of what we do here. Structured/unstructured, low and mid
profile. Some of what I do is not in the manuals, you need to look at what is
happening and adjust for the situation. Your digitizing has to be correct and
if you are not experienced at digitizing for caps, pay to have it done. It
involves so much more than bottom up/center out. I only have the WACF and have
not had any issues with how they function.
If the cap is not flat in the hoop while it is on the gauge (the device you
hoop the cap on) it will not work. We are told that they must be hooped
tightly, this does not refer to how much muscle it takes to close the clamp.
When I get the cap in the hoop and pull on the closures (of the cap). I am
tightening the cap and making it flat. If I can see the impression of the
gauge in the cap I know it is good to go. If not it is not tight/flat enough.
This is really easy to accomplish with unstructured caps but structured are a
different story. After breaking the edge off my table pulling on the cap,
trying to get it flat the light bulb came on. Put the cap (structured) in the
hoop (do not put the band over it yet) grab the closure in what ever hand you
feel comfortable with and put some tension on it. Nothing happens, it will not
lay flat. Now while holding tension on the closure rub the cap a bit with the
flat of your hand, you will feel the closures move, the face of the cap will
begin to flatten out and the edge of the gauge will begin to show through the
cap. This is making the cap flat and "tight" in the hoop. Still holding the
closures place the band over the cap, get it aligned and then clamp it. This
should be snug and if you are too tight it will deform the cap and mess up your
hooping. I know this sounds like a real process but I can hoop a structured cap
in under 30 seconds. It takes practice and you have to look at the cap to know
it is correct. Unless I am sewing on the sides I do not use clamps with
structured caps. If I am sewing the sides I may wait to clamp them right before
they sew. This lets the cap float, keeps it from dragging on the throat/needle
plate area.
NEEDLE PLATE!!!!! Must use the raised needle plate. Now you get the cap on the
machine. Here is how you know your hooping will work. Take a tool (I use my
tweezers) and press down on the cap right under the presser foot. I you have
more than about 1/8 inch of movement (gap) it is too LOOSE. Excessive gap
creates flagging and flagging causes thread breaks. If this is the case,
rehoop. Rub the face flat. I cannot emphasize how important it is to get this
correct. This is one reason for the raised needle plate. It helps close the gap
between the cap and the machine.
PRESSER FOOT. I run mine all the way up and maybe once in a while will come
down one or two clicks depending on the cap. If you run it all the way down you
will hammer the cap and the impression the presser foot leaves will be there
forever. You cannot prevent flagging with the presser foot.
This is way longer than I meant it to be but the proof is in the pudding. Using
an 8300 stitch design by Janel Harris, 6 doz structured and 6 doz unstructured
ran with 11 thread breaks and no lost goods. I cannot complain.
One other item. When I started I was mistakenly under the impression that this
was a CNC machine that ran thread so put something on it and push the button.
What I have discovered is that embroidery is a skilled trade and no machine is
going to make you an embroiderer. A great day to all..
Herb
Royal Embroidery
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