[amayausers] Re: 2 more simple questions

  • From: "Linen Barn" <linen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 17:01:04 -0800

Larry,

Different people use different pricing structures.  It depends on your costs
(overhead).  I have low overhead working out of my home and having most my
machines paid off, however, this doesn't mean I should sell them dirt cheap
and work for nothing either.  Normally I add 50% onto what I pay for
merchandise.  If it costs $10, I sell it for $15 plus logo.  As far as
embroidery most people charge $1 per 1000 stitches.  I price mine between
$0.50 - $0.75 per 1000.  I am told my prices are too low (even by my
customers) but I make a fair living and am happy doing what I do.  Most
people would charge 100% markup.  So if you have shirts that cost you $10
you would charge $20 for the shirt and at 4.5k stitches $4.50 for the
embroidery for a total of $24.50 per shirt.  If I were to go that high I
would be priced out by 2 companies in town so I have to keep my prices in
order to stay competitive.  Maybe this will at least give you an idea, but
you need to figure out for yourself what you need to mark things up to
survive.

As far as the caps go.  A structured cap has buckram and stands up on its
own.  A unstructured cap has no buckrum and is floppy.  The leaning back is
not necessarily structured or unstructured part of the cap.  The caps that
lean back (if you are talking about the same thing I think you are) are a
real pain to sew on and are next to impossible to get looking real good.
For best results on a cap you need to setup the logo to sew center out and
bottom to top whenever possible.  I am not sure if you are digitizing
yourself and if so how much experience you have or if you are having it done
by someone else.  If someone else is digitizing for you be sure to tell them
they are digitizing the design for caps if that is the case.  Most of the
hats now have pre-curved bills.  I have the best results if I uncurve the
cap before putting it on the machine.  Another trick is if you have a heated
cap press you can get the cap warm first which will soften the fabric and
structured caps will sew as well as unstructured caps.  I have done this on
a few occasions for problem caps and it works great.  I do not have the time
to always do this however and most people can't justify the expense of a cap
press.  I use hooptech cap frames rather than the 270 frames that come with
the machine.  I have been using these for 4 or 5 years now and think they
sew way better than the 270 frames.  I have spend the last few years
learning as much as possible about how to sew caps better and my caps are
50x better now than they were several years ago.  Not sure if any of this
will help your situation.  If you ever have any questions and would like to
give me a call feel free to do so.  I can be reached at 1-888-494-9035.  My
hours are normally M-F 9-5 PST, but I have been working Sat and later in the
evenings lately (probably til Christmas).


Aaron Sargent
The Linen Barn
linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
Medford, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Butler" <ice_man@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 4:15 PM
Subject: [amayausers] 2 more simple questions


I have just finished an order of 14 dozen shirts and I am not sure how to
price the work. These shirts have a total of 4,500 stitches per shirt and
then another dozen that had 10,200 stitches. How should these be priced and
do you add anything to the base price of the shirts since I had to purchase
them from a supplier?

Second question has to do with hats the registration seems to be bad, not
real bad to the person that don't care but to me I think it will drive me
nuts if I have to live with this quality. These hats are not structured,
that is to say they curve back fairly hard at the top. What can I do? I am
open to any suggestions at this time.

Thanks for the help
Larry Butler
ice_man@xxxxxxxxxxxxx




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