[TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
- From: "Electric Medic" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 13:12:02 -0500
Ed:
I like it. I think I will make a jig on plywood, paint it real nice, and
maybe our techs will try it on our next set with a short circuit, or shorted
flyback.
Perry Bower
Electric Medic
"It's Cheaper to Keep Her"
3850 Washington Road Suite 5b
Martinez, Georgia 30907
Phone: 706-8MEDIC4 (863-3424)
Phone: 706-863-3474
Fax: 706-863-2316
Website: www.electricmedic.com
mailto:info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
"WE REPAIR WITH CARE"
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-----Original Message-----
From: techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Edward Gaidies
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:16 AM
To: techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
Perry;
You don't need to solder a light bulb in. You make up a little jig, with the
light bulb in series with an AC receptacle, on a little sheet of plywood.
Then plug the TV under test directly into the AC receptacle.
-Ed-
>
> Friends:
>
> We used to use the light bulb test on Motorola base stations to find
shorts
> after lightning strikes. If the bulb had a bright glow, you had shorts to
> find. We just simply repaired circuits until the bulb went dim. But those
> had a round screw in fuse the same size as a light bulb. We have found on
> most TV's, if you run your powerite down to around 80 volts, you may not
> blow any parts if the flyback is bad, however, the flyback will get warm,
or
> in some cases might even smoke a little. The best way though is to use a
> Sencore VG92, and do a load test, with everything in circuit. It will
check
> your timing and loads, you will know in less than five minutes if your
> flyback is bad. That is just what works for us. It is hard to get my young
> techs to solder a light bulb socket into a little TV chassis. They try to
> come up with quicker test. My 2 cents.
>
> Perry Bower
> Electric Medic
> "It's Cheaper to Keep Her"
> 3850 Washington Road Suite 5b
> Martinez, Georgia 30907
> Phone: 706-8MEDIC4 (863-3424)
> Phone: 706-863-3474
> Fax: 706-863-2316
> Website: www.electricmedic.com
> mailto:info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "WE REPAIR WITH CARE"
> More Info: www.augusta-ga.bbb.org/report.html?compid=6001278&national=y
>
> Factory Trained Authorized Service Center For: Fisher, GE, KEC/KTV,
Konka,
> Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Philips Magnavox, Pioneer, ProSCAN, RCA, Samsung,
> Sanyo, Sharp, SONY, Technics, Zenith
>
> Provide Extended care for: AON, Circuit City, GE Contracts, Glass Agency,
> Philips Contracts, NEW, Rex
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Dennis Viereck
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 2:22 AM
> To: techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
>
>
>
> No need to blow up any parts. Use a 40 watt light bulb in series with the
B+
> to
> the flyback. Connect your oscilloscope to the collector of the horizontal
> output
> transistor. Set the scope to resolve a 600 volt PP signal at 10 micro
> seconds
> per division. Power up the set an look for a clean undistorted pulse with
a
> duty
> cycle of 11.7 microseconds "OFF" time and a "ON" time of 51.7
microseconds.
>
> Any extra ringing or distortion means you have a heavy load on the
secondary
> or
> an internal shorted winding.
>
> The light bulb saves components, and buys time to measure the "Must Haves"
> in
> that circuit. Sometimes only 2 or 3 seconds is necessary to make this
> measurement. Most of the time after a short test like this and it is a
> flyback,
> one can feel the heat generated in the flyback by the bad winding or diode
> stack.
>
> Dennis Viereck
>
> Bill McFarland wrote:
>
>> Hey no problem,
>>
>> The old "N" chassis used to do this all the time (The flyback was almost
>> always bad)
>>
>> I was just wondering if anyone could say "Yea those crap the bed all the
>> time!" It would give me a little more to go on when on Monday I use my
>> "Stone-aged" BK 1077 to ring it. (Its only about 75% effective...And that
>> only if the flyback is completely out of the unit)
>>
>> I hate blowing parts up!
>>
>> Funny thing is now that "I" am the one paying for the parts. I sure am a
> lot
>> more careful about things like this. When I worked for someone else it
was
>> faster to just change the HOT and Reg. and see if it blows the HOT back
> up!
>> (I was young...What can I say)
>>
>> Good luck, God Bless
>> Bill McFarland
>> DMC Electronics
>> Salt Lake City, Utah
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Dennis Viereck <wa6ati@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:37 PM
>> Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
>>
>>>
>>> Opps... I can't read.... Never mind. You might be right......
>>> Dennis Viereck
>>>
>>> Dennis Viereck wrote:
>>>
>>>> Depending on how the STR is shorted, I would the think the set would
>> still
>>>> run. Assuming the AC line voltage is reduced enough to achieve 130VDC
> at
>> the
>>>> output of the regulator. This is a simple linear regulator and easily
>>>> bypassed.
>>>>
>>>> A "Shorted" STR certainly would not point me in he direction of the
>> flyback.
>>>> Maybe if you had a shorted horizontal output transistor, I might feel
>>>> inclined to agree with you. But certainly not on 1 shorted part and
>>>> intestinal feelings......
>>>>
>>>> Dennis Viereck
>>>>
>>>> Bill McFarland wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello all,
>>>>>
>>>>> I am working on a 25X6 Maggot-box.
>>>>>
>>>>> Shorted HOT, Bad STR30130 Regulator.
>>>>>
>>>>> My gut tells me the flyback is probably bad as well.
>>>>>
>>>>> Can anyone tell me if the Flyback is a common failure item in this
>> unit?
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck, God Bless
>>>>> Bill McFarland
>>>>> DMC Electronics
>>>>> Salt Lake City, Utah
>>>>>
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--
From: Ed Gaidies
teltek@xxxxxxxxxxx
Tel-Tek Electronics
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