[tcb] Re: motor discussion:
- From: Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:45:39 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Depending on what the stroke is, you'll have to clearance the case for the
counterweights. This can be done with a feeler gauge and a dremel, or you can
have it done at a machine shop. You can also buy cases already clearanced. I
like the dremel method because you don't remove as much material. As a general
rule, up to 82mm stroke cranks, any "off the shelf" cam will fit in the case
and clear the cam. Above that, depending upon cam, crank, journal size
clearancing of the cam in a couple of spots is required to clear the
counterweights of the crank. You can also get high dollar cases with the cam
tunnel moved down, more bucks. When going with a stroker crank you'll also
have to consider short skirt (called "B") pistons. The reason for this is
that when the piston is at BTDC, that it can clear the counterweights on the
crank. You can also compensate with rod length, but this is where you start
getting into larger quantities of cash. For example, the stock VW rod journal
is very "fat", most stroker combinations nowadays use Chevy 2" rod journals,
which are smaller and you have better availability of longer rod lengths. I
grew up old school and always want the shortest rods I can run to maintain that
high torque value.
Short rods = higher Rod Angles = more torque. Longer Rods = smaller rod angles
= less torque. Higher Rod Angles put more side load stress on the rods etc.
All of this can add up quickly in terms of cost.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Jul 26, 2006 10:16 AM
>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [tcb] Re: motor discussion:
>
>ok so 90.5 bore what about stroke? and when going to a stroker what do you
>have to do to the cam? seems as if a stroker will come awfully close to the
>cam.
>
>
>>From: Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>Reply-To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>Subject: [tcb] Re: motor discussion:
>>Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 09:47:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>1641 is a 1300/1500/1600 bottom end with 87mm pistons. A 1776 is the same
>>with 90.5mm pistons, then you have 1835 (92s) and 1915s (94mm slugs). The
>>rap on the 92s is that they have thin walls, although they have thick wall
>>92s available. There's also 88mm slugs, but their price and for the
>>displacement increase they provide don't give you much, so go with 90.5s.
>>87s are also thin but they work. If your engine runs hot, it doesn't
>>matter how thick the cylinder walls are, you'll have problems.
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Denis Dodson
>>Sent: Jul 26, 2006 9:36 AM
>>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>Subject: [tcb] Re: motor discussion:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>OK here's my uneducated question, Why a 1641? How much horsepower is added?
>>A1641 is basically different heads, yes? Is the purpose to give umph
>>without machining the case? I am not saying you are wrong, mark, but I have
>>asked this question of others before and never gotten a real answer.
>>
>>And since we are on this subject, what is involved in "machining" the case
>>or, for example in my 1914. Is there more than cutting to give the stroke
>>more clearance?. Could I not do this at home? I know that line boring and
>>such is special tools, but that should be done on all cases, no?
>>
>>I have been led to believe that the 1776 was the strongest mod and the 1835
>>the worst (because of the thin cylinder wall)..
>>
>>All these questions!
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Mark Sawyer
>>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 9:02 AM
>>Subject: [tcb] Re: motor discussion:
>>
>>
>>The first question is, Do you have a machine shop that you trust? My
>>favorite engine to build is a 1641 with the 044 heads, scat c25 cam, stock
>>stroke, 2 barrel progressive carb, and a good full flow exhaust. Most
>>anything bigger than that your are going to have the block machined for
>>larger cylinders.
>>
>>Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>so it has been quiet here for a while now so i decided to start a real
>>discussion not a brian messed up and forgot to tighten the axle nut
>>discussion.
>>
>>so here goes:
>>
>>i just aquired a dual releif case. my goal is to eventually with time and
>>money build a nice, carry the bus and it's shit around at 70-75 mph without
>>having to swap trannies type of motor. now i know folks have talked about
>>1835's vs. 1776's and i have heard some talk about 1914's. i know this it
>>should probalby be a stroker, after that i am lost. i don't really want
>>dual
>>carbs because i want it to look somewhat stock. no denis, no mega squirt
>>either. i am thinking some sort of progressive carb. i know i will run an
>>external cooler and filter, probably the filter i have. i know it will have
>>a doghouse cooler also. so here is the big questions:
>>
>>what kind of heads?
>>what kind of rockers?
>>what kind of stroke?
>>what kind of bore?
>>what kind of fuel pump?
>>what kind of carb?
>>what kind of oil pump?
>>am i crazy?
>>
>>again i don't want a big dogg performer like what is in will's DC. what do
>>you all recommend?
>>
>>Discuss:
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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