[tcb] Re: condenser and heated brain farts
- From: Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 15:56:25 -0600
It's the whole exposed area of the fuel tank where the nipple sticks
out that gets heated. Weather turned cold again so I haven't gotten
under there to see if it was hot enough to warp the fuel filter. I know
my beetle could melt sneakers left on the back floorboard in the winter.
I'm putting the old tube back in and ordering a new pair (at twenty
freaking five dollars each for a plastic tube) and some barrel nuts to
go ahead and hook the heat back up.
I looked at some Cool-Tech stuff but all AutoZone had was the adhesive
backed stuff (like shiny tape) and they wanted $20 for the package they
had. I'd rather put the heating system back together.
G2
On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 20:07:55 -0600
Justin Wilt <sunbugone@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Vapor lock is possible if that pipe is being heated by the heater
> box. I have some insulation pipe you can slide over the hose, good
> stuff. That way you won't have any heat transfered into the fuel
> lines and eliminate that as a possible cause. Have you checked for
> fuel in the float when the engine quits? Sometimes the fuel tank
> vent becomes clogged and after 30min or so of driving, it forms a
> vacuum in the tank. This starves the pump, engine quits, after
> allowing it to sit and relieve the vacuum, it starts again. Try
> driving it without the fuel cap on and see if it quits. I have seen
> where the bakelight fuel pump stand swells and locks up the rod which
> results in lack of fuel as well. Let me know if you want some fuel
> pipe insulation.
>
> Justin
>
> On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 5:57 PM, Gerald Livingston
> <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
>
> > Checked the points.
> >
> > Changed the fuel filter.
> >
> > Neither solved the original problem.
> >
> > Wasn't the condenser either.
> >
> > So, how many of you with a single Solex newer than the 30-PICT are
> > running with an "idle air cutoff solenoid" that has the plunger
> > clipped off? I am (again) now. It was also new. It's the second one
> > that has failed on this motor. Cheap Chinese crap.
> >
> > If it won't idle, check the dang IDLE CIRCUIT!
> >
> >
> > Now, on to the new problem.
> >
> > Did any of you know that brain farts are hot enough to cause vapor
> > lock?
> >
> > Bus cranked up fine after it sat a couple of hours. Runs OK for
> > short trips around town with 30 - 45 minute cool downs between runs.
> >
> > That is vapor lock.
> >
> > Why is it suddenly prone to vapor lock in 60° weather?
> >
> > Because, when changing the fuel filter I pulled out the accordion
> > heater tube (which is pretty messed up) and I left it out.
> >
> > Even though the heater tubes inside the engine compartment are not
> > hooked up and blowing air through the heater boxes there is still a
> > significant amount of header heat coming out the front of them ---
> > directly below the fuel tank outlet and my filter. That heat was
> > previously blocked by a 6" diameter plastic covered asbestos tube.
> > Now it isn't.
> >
> > Is the replacement tube for a '70 a 60/60 or a 60/50? Only early
> > splitties had the 60/50, correct?
> >
> > G2
> >
> >
> > On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:48:56 -0600
> > Gerald Livingston <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > > I bought a set of points based on the behavior. I got my head in
> > > there and the installed points look fine. Ran a points file
> > > through the gap and it slipped easily with very little bite so
> > > there's no pitting.
> > >
> > > Next step with the behavior it's exhibiting --- crawl under the
> > > bus, push the heater tube out of the way, look at the fuel
> > > filter. I suppose the 1/8" of crap sitting in the bottom of it
> > > might have something to do with the stumble-and-die problem.
> > > <sigh>
> > >
> > > It's in a spot that I need to get my good jack from the house to
> > > raise the bus and change the filter.
> > >
> > > The reason I suspected I might need a resistor on the coil is
> > > because I run the full 14.x VDC generator voltage to my coil
> > > through a relay and about 3 feet of new wire straight from the
> > > battery + post. It's not getting only whatever volts happen to
> > > make it back through 30 feet of 40 year old wire and a keyswitch.
> > >
> > > G2
> > >
> > > On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 15:22:43 -0600
> > > "chuck" <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > >
> > > > http://www.historicwinton.org/Ignition%20Condensors.htm This
> > > > may help. oleblue
> >
> >
>
>
Other related posts:
